Constantinople (edited from B.L. Add.Mss. 56529)

Friday May 11th 1810

Fair light wind and rain.  Weighed anchor [at] ten.  Passed the forts – saluted, seventeen guns – returned by the Asia Fort.  Sailing along, came to where the Hellespont appears the narrowest: a battery on Asia side, and high land with a vale running down to the shore, forty miles at least from [the] town of Maito1 in the bay on the Europe side, and five from the Dardanelles.  Current here less.  Channel of the Hellespont does not widen much for some distance.  The most beautiful scenery on either side; cultivated hedgerow land interspersed with romantic villages.

About five o’clock, came to opposite Lamsaki,2 a middle-sized town on low land, coming out into the strait, and, two miles farther on the Europe side, the large town of Gallipoli.  Appearance of an old tower, and a range of perpendicular rocks looking like fortifications – a lighthouse a little farther on.  A shoal runs from Gallipoli, and also from Lamsaki, straits widen very much on Asia side – calm at night – Gallipoli out of sight.

Saturday May 12th 1810

Made very little way3 in the night out of the straits.  High land of Europe rather more barren, but villages to the water’s edge – islands – off a long narrow low one, and the rocky island of Marmora,4 at five and six.  Light and baffling airs all day – in the evening at eight breeze sprung up – five-knot breeze all night.

Sunday May 13th 1810

In the morning <almost in the mouth of the Bosphorus> don’t see mouth of Bosphorus till round Seraglio Point.  Low, green land of Thrace near.5  Very distant land in Asia – Ponte Grande6 – three bridges over a marsh, six hours from Constantinople (No, no).7  Now in sight with a glass.  One o’clock, wrote this from Tuesday. – – – – – – –

Have been reading Lord Chesterfield8 – admire him very much, but he mentions a “pretty person” as to be possessed by the accomplished gentleman, so his precepts are not for me.9

First view of Constantinople two o’clock, the white minarets of Sultan Achmed and Santa Sophia looking like Kings College Chapel at a distance.  Came on to blow hard from the north.  Beating up, view obscured by the bad weather – innumerable minarets.

Anchored a little before sunset, nearly off the first point before the Seraglio Point … dined in gun room …

Monday May 14th 1810

Cold rainy bad weather.  Left the frigate in the gig at twelve.10  Rowed round the first point.  There were waiting fellows with rope lines, which they flung into the boat and towed her against the strong current under the walls of the Seraglio Gardens for more than a mile.

Saw two dogs gnawing a body.11

Walls of the Seraglio without artillery – gloomy appearance of the dark cypress trees rising above the walls.12  Rowed over to the other side of the Canal to Tophana, the cannon foundry, where landed, and went after some little time on horseback, climbing up a hill to the inn in Pera, where four ways meet, the gayest in Pera but most miserable, and small – bad as Wapping.13  We get two very decent rooms indeed, and are served with the best inn dinner we have met with out of London.  Very cold – a large billiard room at our inn – the man well-bred and polite.  Good butter from Belgrade,14 but not made into the English consistence.  In the evening gentlemen from frigate called – had a fire in room.

Tuesday May 15th 1810

A finer day – determined to have a tooth out, which has been long my occasional misery.  Sent for a Jew who extracts for the Grand Signor, and who, when first sent for to the Seraglio had recourse to this expedient: the instant he got the instrument on the Sultan’s tooth, he twisted it out and fell backwards with a great scream – the Sultan jumped up and inquired the cause of his alarm, but before he could be answered began spitting blood, and to his great joy found his tooth was out, the scream of the Jew having taken away his attention from the pain of the operation.15  This man pulled out my tooth very well indeed.

Byron called on Canning16 – praises him much.  Captain Bathurst called twice today – good dinner again, with Pontac and Hock and good London porter.

Wednesday May 16th 1810

Up ten.  Called on Mr Canning.17  English Palace18 very superb, of stone.  Large rooms – a throne.  Suites of apartments, but damp.  Number of servants – a burying ground, not unpleasant, in Turkey, below, and then the port or canal, with the Turkish men-of-war making a fine show.  The effects of the late fire19 close to the Palace, but quickly rebuilding.  Mr Canning pleasing young man with a vulgar voice.20  A fine day.  View from the inn, the palaces of the Seraglio, the mouth of the Bosphorus, and of the Canal.  The town on the low land below Scutari (Calcedon formerly, not Scutari)21 and Princes’ Islands in the Sea of Marmora.

Dined at the Palace, Mr Canning, Mr Meyers, Mr Biddle, and Dr Bates.22  Dinner cut at the side table – a bad plan.  Mr Adair23 desired to see me and I went to his room.  I saw him, very pale and weak, dark eyes, but an ugly man, mild manners.  Tells me he knew my father.24  Detests the Turks.  Santa Maura taken – many Albanians killed.25  Mr Adair says “we.”26  Dragoman to the Porte is called “mon Prince”27 Desired when we do not dine at the Palace to give notice.

Thursday May 17th 1810

Fine day.  Up at ten.  Walked with Andrew28 to Tophana, thence to Galata, where the foreign merchants have their warehouses.  Principal streets built of stones and more regular and large than Pera, from which it is separated on the upper part by a castellated wall, underneath which is a rope-walk, and near the gate the high round tower of Galata, built by the Latins.  A cone of windows crowns the tower, and here there is a guard who beat a large drum on the occasion of a fire and scream from the top of the Tower.  Hearing music, went into a room like a hall with a gallery all round it.  This was a wine-house29 and here I saw a boy dancing in a style indescribably beastly, scarcely moving from one place, but making a thousand lascivious motions with his thighs, loins, and belly.30  Small tables set out in various parts of the gallery.  The boys Greeks with very thick and long hair.  An old wretch striking a guitar and singing kept close to the dancer, and at the most lecherous moments cried out, “Ομοφφα ομδφα!!”31

Called on Mr Baraband.32  Entered our new lodging in Pera, for which we are to give 300 piastres per month in advance, exchanging fifteen-and-a-quarter in pounds sterling!33 A good house, four rooms.  Dined at the Palace again, in uniform.

Friday May 18th 1810

Up ten.  Put on uniform, and at two went on board the Salsette.  Thence proceeded with Captain Bathurst and officers to see the Capitan Pasha34 in his office by the arsenal in the Golden Horn, where the fleet lies.  Received by him in a splendid room at the water’s edge.  He did not rise.  Black eye, black beard, reported to be a very savage fellow.  Asked Captain Bathurst if the wind was likely to continue long in the same quarter as today.  Asked him if he had a man on board to manage the compass for him.  He has never yet been at sea.35  He gave no pipes.36

Captain Bathurst, in his ironbound, returned first on board, then home.  Dined at the Palace.  Mr Meyers tells me the society here once was good, there having been twelve respectable missions, who were able, with their friends and guests, to keep up a good company without mixing with the dragomans.  Society divided into the diplomacies, the dragomans by family, who are very numerous, and the merchants, who are not at all respectable.  Great abilities and extreme exertions of Mr Adair, who has succeeded in persuading the Porte that no concessions will prevent their subversion by the French.37  Want of communication between the governments and the embassies; Mr Maubourg, the French Chargé d’affairs,38 has been six months without a dispatch [from] France, who does not think it worth while to send a Plenipo39 here.  England and Germany alone have one.

Saturday May 19th 1810

This day, went with Byron and a party to the wine houses of Galata.  Took pipes, and saw two old and ugly boys, who wrung the sweat off their brows, dance as before, waving their long hair.  Also they spread a mat and, putting on a kind of shawl, performed an Alexandrian woman’s dance – much the same, except that they knelt, and, covering each other’s heads, seemed as if kissing.  One of Mr Adair’s Janissaries,40 who talks English and has been in England, was with us.  I asked him if these boys would not be hanged in England.41 “Oh yes, directly.  De Turk take and byger dem d’ye see?”

For this beastly sight we paid fifty-five piastres, five to the boys each, and five to all fiddlers and singers and performers &c.,42 nor is this dear, I understand.  Turk boys are not allowed to dance.

Afterwards we went up the tower of Galata – 147 steps – hollow tower with a habitation at the top.  View every part of this beautiful city, but cannot discover the seven hills.  The Pera side most uneven, apparently.

Dined at the Palace.  Sent off a packet in two parts to Matthews43 by a Tartar to Smyrna, and one to Seton.44

Sunday May 20th 1810

Up ten.  Called on by the officers of the Salsette.  Saw a procession preceded by six men in German livery – crosses and chanters, and a car adorned with flowers containing a dead priest, his face and hands uncovered, and the body dressed up as when living45 – his eyes were open, and a rheum running from one of them.  I thought at first it was a waxen image.

Just opposite our windows is a convent for women, and a chapel where there is service performed and where I hear prayers chanting.46

Walked out down the street of Pera to the Armenian burying-ground and the large barracks, a regular-built white building.  Here were all sorts of diversions: coaches or light waggons drawn by a pair of oxen, horses ready saddled, ups-and-downs,47 sherbet stands, and games of chance such as I have seen in England – teetotums, the leather and the stick, at which I lost five shillings.48  Here also was wrestling; the men were quite naked except for a pair of loose drawers.  Their great attempt was to be uppermost, making no account of falling, and sometimes linked exactly as in the Pancratium picture in Potter.49  Here were tents also, and groups sitting under the trees under the tombs.  Parties seen strolling along the different roads into the country, the Turks seeming principally to enjoy the leisures of the Xtian sabbath.

The distant view here is also very beautiful: Scutari, the Bosphorus, and the villages on this side.

Came home.  Saw a procession.  Two men carrying a pole, to which hung two kettles or pots, then a double line of men with sticks, and lastly a man, strangely dressed with [a] large bell-looking button.  The Janissaries at the Ambassador’s gates stood up reverently as they passed.  These were the kettles of the Janissaries,50 and their cook, to which they pay more respect than to their standards or their colonel.

Dined at the Palace, and shown by Mr Canning a very large collection of pictures containing the costume of Turkey and of some parts of Constantinople.

Monday May 21st 1810

Breakfasted half-past eight at the Palace.  Went with Captain Bathurst, Mr Jackson, Mr Bidell and Chamier,51 having Mustapha and another Janissary, to Constantinople.  Visited the bazaars – covered in, very full of women and people, and a great display of all kinds of merchandise.  Each bazaar confined to some peculiar kind of goods.  Went to the buistun,52 very full – criers with goods in their hands walking round the enclosure.  Asked 450 piastres for a Damascus blade.  Visited a Han of stone53 with iron gates, enclosing a yard, which are shut up in case of fires, insurrections, &c.  Small rooms, neatly enough furnished, let out to merchants.  180 of these in Constantinople, that which I saw the largest and of a considerable size, with trees in the yard.

Visited the 1,001 pillars,54 underground, formerly a reservoir, now sunk in the earth and half only of pillars apparent.  Here were a number of silk twisters.55  There are not 1,001 pillars.  Visited the Burnt Column56 and went into a house to get at its base, which is square.  Visited the Atmeidan,57 an oblong open piece of ground running along the rails of the court of the mosque58 of Sultan Achmet.  Here we saw the great granite Obelisk59 on a base of marble with reliefs and a Latin inscription, on one side of which there are three lines and this is the last:

Saw also famous brazen twisted serpents,61 part sunk in the earth, but whether the head or the tail is not agreed.  It grows bigger towards the bottom.  They are hollow, and filled with stones broken at the top.  [On] one side of the Atmeidan are sheds with coaches in them.  Went into the court of the mosque, and the outward hall where are noble pillars of red granite.  Could not enter the mosque.  This has six minarets, which is singular to it alone; and having a noble court with trees has a great effect.

Near the mosque saw the sepulchre of Sultan Achmet, the founder.62  Went on to the walls and the gate of the Seraglio gardens, high and gloomy, with the niches on each side of the gate where the heads of criminals are exposed, the body being flung on a dung mixen63 near.  Looked through a grating in a building near, and saw the sepulchres of Sultans Mustapha and Selim,64 with red and yellow turbans.  Saw [the] outside of St Sophia, and in the court of Sultan             65 mosque, saw the sarcophagus of red granite, supposed to have been the tomb of Constantine66 – it has no covering, and is now full of water.  Came to the new mosque, where we had entered, and where is a kind of old clothes fair,67 and dined in a kebab68-house a half mile further.  Kebab, little pieces of fried mutton with milk and butter, very good indeed.  Meat dressed on a dresser in the outer shop and carried into a kind of coffee-room with boxes behind.  We had a room – there is but one, upstairs – drank sherbet, which is very sweet.

Went across the water to the Arsenal and thence to the Galeogis Wharf, where saw a dead man on his belly with his head off lying between his legs, face upwards.  He had been executed yesterday on the same spot.  The skin was off his legs and arms by bastinado or burning.  He had been a Greek Cogia Basha69 and was from Toccala.  His face was black and he seemed to have been dead a week at least.

Walked up burying-ground to the English Palace, and thence home where wrote this very imperfect account of the day’s tour, which has left upon me a much more favourable idea of Constantinople than I entertained before.  The streets are clean, more regular, wider, and better built than Pera, and the bazaar and buistun are very striking, even to a person acquainted with and accustomed to the wealth and the shops of London.70  The number of Jews everywhere immense – not insulted.  Saw many armed men.

Dined at the Palace.

Tuesday May 22nd 1810

Rainy weather.  Did nothing, but after dinner two balleures de pavé71 all night which were brought by the inimitable serious Mr Buffo,72 the man who personated the bear before Sultan Selim.

Wednesday May 23rd 181073

Up ten.  Rainy cold weather, but walked with Mr Bidwell and Dr Bates74 to the Topgis barrack.75  Passed the burying-ground down the hill to the gardens of the Sultan’s palace on the Bosphorus, at the entrance of the garden is a picquet,76 and tents placed, now the Sultan is at his country residence.  Went to the wood wharf where had a view of part of his palace, which is directly on the water’s edge.  Returned towards Pera by another road and turning into a small house on the side of a hill saw the kennel of the Sultan’s bear-dogs – sixteen very large mastiff-looking dogs, each of whom roused themselves at our entrance and looked fierce enough, though double-chained, to frighten us away.  Met a Greek burial, face and hands exposed as before.77

Dined at the Palace.  Byron not going.78

Thursday May 24th 1810

Up ten.  Rode out at two with Mr Canning to a place called Sweet Waters,79 in a valley, where runs one of the rivers which serves to make the port of Constantinople.  The river has here the appearance of a canal cut straight, each bank having a row of large trees, giving the place very much the appearance of being laid out by some European, which I hear it was.80

Crossed the river, passed through village, crossed another wooden bridge, and proceeded down the long enclosed valley, where the Sultan’s horses were feeding in great numbers, with tents pitched for the guard of them.  These guards fired on Mr Meyers one night as he was returning from Belgrade, his Janissary galloping off as fast as he could.

Ascended the hill on the right, and rode over a fine down to a barrack, burnt down in Muchtar Bairacta’s rebellion.81  Returned there by the large Topgis barracks.

Home.  Dined at the Palace.  Mr Bidwell has mentioned that the Janissaries will protect not only one of their body from the Turks, but that one regiment has been known to protect a deserter from another who had asked their support.  The English ambassador is put under the protection of a whole regiment, about 200 men – the 40th.  Some regiments have 800, some 1,200 men.  The Topgis joined them in the late rebellion, and are now considered as belonging to their corps.  They are 8,000 men and perform the part of City guard.

Friday May 25th 1810

Up eleven.  Went with a party to the Turning Dervishes.82  We were conducted into the room by a private door and were seated in the gallery of the room, which was octagonal with the interior part railed off, with a wood floor, highly polished.  We waited some time, when the large door opposite the red carpet placed for the Superior of the order83 was opened, and the Turks rushed in exactly like the mob into a playhouse, each however carefully taking off his shoes or slippers as he entered.  The place outside the rails and the gallery was soon nearly filled.  The dervishes dropped in one by one, and as they entered the railed enclosure, most reverently, and most of them most gracefully, bowed to the Superior’s seat.  At last the Superior entered, better dressed than the rest, and with his feet not naked.  With him was another man, better dressed, who seemed to officiate afterwards as clerk.84  Other dervishes arrived, and went up into the gallery opposite the Superior, where were lying four small cymbal drums.  The Superior now began praying for about ten minutes.  Then a dervish stood up in the gallery and sang from a book for some time.  Next the drums were beat, and a general song commenced in the gallery, four dervishes playing also on long yellow cane-pipes, to tunes by no means unpleasant and indeed something like an English air.

On some sudden note being struck, the dervishes all suddenly fell flat on their faces, clapping their hands all at once on the earth.  Then the music ceased, and the Superior began again to pray.  Then he rose and began to march slowly round the room, all the others following and bowing, each of them, on both sides of the Superior’s cushion.  They compassed the room three times, the Superior bowing also, but not to the cushion only – when he was half-way across it – then the Superior re-seated himself, prayed a short time, the music struck up, and the dervishes stood up.  Fourteen out of the twenty who were present let drop a long coloured petticoat and threw off their cloaks, then the clerk marched past the Superior and bowed, retiring into the middle of the room.

A dervish followed, bowed and began to whirl, his long petticoat flying out.  [sketch]85 The rest all followed, and soon all were in a whirl, a circle round the room, and three or four in the middle – the arms of one man alone were held straight upwards, the rest had theirs extended horizontally, out full length, generally with the palm of one hand turned upwards, and of the other downward, the fingers close together.  Two of them had their right arm crooked like a kettle spout.

Some of them turned with great speed – they revolved round the room imperceptibly – the clerk continued walking amongst them and the Superior waving his body gently <backwards and> sideways and smiling.  They continued at this work for twenty-five minutes but with four short intervals.  The last time they turned ten minutes, nor did any one seem affected by this strange exercise, though there was one boy about fifteen and another seventeen perhaps.

The clerk, after the turning and music ceased, prayed, and a man walking round threw his cloak upon each of the dervishes as he was in his place bending to the earth.  The Superior then prayed the last prayer and we left him in the midst of it.86

These dervishes are more liberal and learned (in Arabic) than any men in Turkey (see Rubruquis p 119)87 &c., and the public is obliged to them for the preservation [of] the beauties of the Arabic, as all of them are instructed in that tongue, and as they gather together collections of books in that language.

Dined at the Palace as usual – beat Mr Canning at chess after a very long uphill game.

Saturday May 26th 1810

Went with Byron, the Captain, and a large party, to the Arsenal, the Dock, the Rope-yard, the brass nail foundry, and the ships.

First called on the Minster of Marine,88 whom [we] found with a kind of painting apparatus and hair pencil, painting a sprig of flower upon small bits of written paper, and handing them off to Turks in waiting.  He seemed full of himself and smiled heartily, especially at young Mr Chamier89 being an officer, which circumstance seemed indeed to strike everybody.90  He said first, “I love English Captains”, then “I love English seamen”.

The water is deep enough up to the piers for a three-decker, and one was lying there, and about nine two-deckers, and also the La Justice which carried Denon91 to Egypt, now called the La Victorieuse, with a palm bunch at the head.  There are several well-contrived marine inventions, one for hoisting masts up the ship, good store rooms, but not full and but little work going on in them.  There are several piers of stone for heaving down, but had Selim92 lived it was his intention to have run a stone wharf all along the extent of the port.  He introduced several improvements, and built a college for cadets of marine.

A neat house on the water’s edge near the dock, with a green rail on one side of it.  Saw a three-decker on the stocks.  A man a hundred years old.  Russian prisoners93 chained, working.  Went on board the Sultan Selim, 120 guns, compliment 1,200 men, who the captain said were all on board Capitan Pacha’s ship.  His cabin very elegant – not particularly large – with a stern galley, and beautiful marble quarter-galleries with a small hole to drop the excrement in, and water and sponges at hand.94  Captain’s Cabin not good, nor the gun room.  Officer’s cabins forward, immense – oven for bread-baking – four large cannon on each side with [  ] without trucks or wheels.

Whilst on board, Capitan Pacha passed in his gilded barge, going to Buyuckdere, and the trumpeters mounted on the poop and played melancholy but not unpleasant music, as also did those in the other three-decker ships.  In commission now ten [are] ten seventy-fours and two three-deckers.95  Sultan Selim clean and sweet, and quarter looking clean, of course, not being burthened with any conveniences or necessaries for the crew.

Went on board a seventy-four96 commanded by a man who was taken at Alexandria by the English, and who, being afraid to return to Constantinople, stayed three years in Syracuse with another man, who had also been in power in Alexandria.97  He was with this captain.  When the English returned to this city the Captains returned also, but the government was going to cut off their heads, a proceeding prevented by Mr Adair, who not only saved them but got them a ship – we were most heartily received.  They spoke Italian, regretted they were unprepared, and would have sent for coffee.  Upon discerning Mr Meyers, with whom they had come up the Archipelagoes in the Pylades,98 they hastened to him with delight in every feature, pressed him tenderly by the hand, asked him a thousand questions, and showed their love and gratitude by a thousand expressions of kindness.  ’Tis a pity that we cannot call again on board this ship, as that notice might be dangerous to these grateful persons.

Leaving the seventy-four, we proceeded by the dock, up the burying-ground, and so home.

Did not either of us dine at the Palace today.  In the evening I took a walk [at] nine o’clock with Mr Ekenhead to three <bawdy>-houses, two amongst the ruins of Pera, and met no-one.99  Warm day.

Sunday May 27th 1810

Breakfasted half-past seven at the Palace.  Proceeded on board the frigate afterwards, thence to Scutari – took horses, a large party.  Horses always to be got, and decent ones.  Rode to the village of Bocyalosce and the hill above, where there is a fount of clear water, sold five paras a two-quart bottle in Constantinople.  On top of the hill are a few shady trees.  It commands a view of the winding of the Bosphorus as far as Buyuckdere, of Constantinople from the Seven Towers to the Topgis Barracks in Pera, of the downs towards Belgrade behind, of the island of Marmora (we did not see it, being a misty stormy day) and of the Princes’ Islands and the Gulf of Nicomedia.  The country immediately round is well-cultivated, with gardens supplying Constantinople with fruit, vineyards, and melon grounds, and towards the Black Sea the ground is divided, with pleasant hedgerows and frequent clumps of trees.  The hill is not quite an hour’s ride from Scutari.  Here Lusieri took his minute drawing of Constantinople.

Proceeded from the hill, leaving Scutari on the right, through a village and hedgerows and corn grounds, to Phanari-batchi,100 a point where are some tall cypresses, a lighthouse yielding a poor light, and a ruin said to have been a house of Constantine ye First,101 afterwards a mosque, and now nothing.  On the south of the point is a fishery.  A man is perched upon a high pole, and when he sees the fish, lets drop the net, as singing birds are ensnared – here at a little distance from the point, behind, are two raised banks with stone sides o’ershadowed with high and venerable trees, with a fountain playing in each of them, and in a square bath of cold spring water102 four feet deep, which may be made sufficiently private by a canvas curtain contrived to drop on the side of the bank next to the other parterre.

Here we took some cold provisions, and afterwards some coffee and pipes provided by the Turk bostanjic,103 the tenant of this retreat.  Under the contiguous shades was a large party of gentlemen and ladies carousing with a genteel apparatus of tablecloths, &c.104

Left the place two o’clock.  Proceeded homewards through fields and through the town of Katikue (Calcedon) to Scutari.  Passed by the railed enclosure intended for the exercise of the Kiram Jedid by [the] Sultan, and the site of the barracks burnt down,105 capable of containing 30,000 men – also by his mosque near the barracks, and the regular wide-built streets which this enterprising Sultan intended to have allotted to manufacturers in silk and other precious stuffs; as it is, cottons are sent from Smyrna to England, spun there, and thence imported into Constantinople to be worked into garments, furniture &c.106  Here visited the printing-house, only one press which in twelve years has printed no more than forty different books: bought the new regulations of the Ottoman Empire107 in French – small folio.

Got into the boat, and crossed over to Tophana, going, on account of the current, within Leander’s Tower,108 where are five small cannon for salutations and [  ].

Came home, dined at Palace as usual.  Mr Bidwell today told me that a Sultan had left so much to feed a number of cats twice a week in the court of Ahmet’s mosque: “To endow a college or a cat”,109 and also related that when a dependant of Yusuf Pacha, the present Prime Vizier, had knocked out his eye with a djerid,110 he called the man to him and gave him a sum of money to maintain himself, but desired him to leave him instantly, “For,” said he, “when I become fully sensible of the loss which this accident has occasioned to me, I may perhaps be induced to revenge myself upon you for the injury”.111  It is reported that Selim used to walk familiarly with General Sebastiani in the gardens of the Serail.112  Mustapha told me today that had Bairactar arrived in the palace one hour sooner, the life of Selim had been saved, and that had Bairactar seized Tophana, all the Janissaries in the empire could not have beat him out of it – – – – –

Monday May 28th 1810

Up eight.  Put on gay regimentals,113 went with Byron to the Palace, where stayed some time, negotiations [being] entered into for settling Byron’s precedency, which terminated unsuccessfully, and he went away because he would not suffer Mr Canning to walk before him.114  I did not recognise Mr Adair, he being in green and gold regimentals.

Procession set forward – the Janissaries, about a hundred in two rows, twenty marines in two [rows], Mr Ekenhead and Mr Lloyd115 at their head on horseback, a dozen servants at least in two lines in yellow and gold and blue, and gold liveries, Holpa116 the dragoman, fourteen sailors in two lines, two officers, and the Master of the Ceremonies at their head.117  Inside the sailors, eight or ten like pages in red, with fur caps, surrounding Mr Adair on horseback, two leading his horse, two supporting the horse close behind.  Then came Mr Canning, then Captain Bathurst, then Mr Consul Morier,118 then myself, then Mr Bidwell, then several gentlemen from the ship, and the gentlemen of the Levant company.119  We proceeded to Tophana [where] the marines and sailors embarked in the large cutter belonging to the frigate, Mr Adair with Mr Pisani120 and the master of the ceremonies in his own barge.  Mr Canning, Captain Bathurst, Mr Bidwell and myself with another in a large country barge.  The frigate was strung with colours, the yards manned, and as the ambassador passed, a salute was fired of seventeen guns.

Landing at             121 Mr Adair, Mr Canning, Mr Morier, Mr Bidwell, Captain Bathurst, myself and one or two others paid respects in a small room to the Bashi122 and had pipes, &c., &c., a long embroidered napkin being laid, part on the Bashi’s knees, part on Mr Adair’s.

On coming out, the whole party mounted on horses richly caparisoned, and sent in great numbers from the Porte for the purpose, and proceeded as before with a smaller guard of Janissaries, the Fortieth123 being left on the other side.  Rode up hill some time, then passed by the walls of the old Seraglio, and in half an hour arrived at the Porte, or government houses (the old one burnt down) the windows of which were all filled with heads gazing at us.  Hurried upstairs arm-in-arm with Mr Bidwell, an immense crowd of Turks pressing about us, with no ceremony for any soul but the Ambassador.

Went through two or three apartments – entered the audience room.  Mr Adair stopped, spoke a little, then the Caimacan,124 or Vice Grand Vizier, entered, and was saluted with a loud prayer (πολυχεονιζειν).125  Mr Adair and he stepped up the step of the room together, and another shout was made – the Caimacan then seated himself, and Mr Adair opposite him in an armchair (the privilege of Ambassadors only), when a third loud prayer was let off.

Mr Adair then made his speech, which he repeated by heart, having it, however, written on his hand (I was close behind his chair): “Having obtained permission from the King of England to return to my country,126 I have come hither to take leave of your Highness.  And I have to request that your Highness will procure me my last audience of the Grand Signor, on the first convenient day.127  I have to express to your Highness the grateful recollection which I preserve of the attention which I have received during the whole of my embassy, and to assure your highness that on my return to England I shall continue by every means in my power to give strength and durability to that peace which it was my good fortune to conclude between the Sublime Porte and His Majesty the King of England.128  I beg that your Highness will exert yourself to the same end, and co-operate with my successor in preserving the alliance and amity at present so happily existing between the two nations.”

This was the substance, and as nearly as I can recollect, the words, of Mr Adair’s speech, which was interpreted by the dragoman of His Highness in a speech appearing to me three times as long, and so low I could not hear him.  The Caimacan then began.  He endeavoured to repeat also, but was out once or twice, and obliged to look on his paper, repeating, as I heard myself, one word over two or three times like a boy at school.  His speech was interpreted by the same man in French to Mr Adair but I hardly heard a word of it.  The dragomen are afraid of speaking loud in presence of a Turk – the greater the dignity, the lower they speak.129

Then sherbet, sweet meats and perfume were served to Mr Adair and the Caimacan, but to no-one else, all the rest being standing, bowing with greatest reverence when being spoken to by the Reis Effendi (Foreign Secretary) on his left hand, the Kiagha Bey or Home Secretary on his right, kissing the hem of the Caimacan’s garment, for it is a maxim that before a superior a man (a Turk) loses all his dignity, and this Vice Vizier, a Pasha of three tails,130 by a slight horizontal motion of his hand, might (would) have every Turk in the room carried off to death.  Then the pellice of honour, of sable and gold-work, on a white ground outside, was put on Mr Adair, and a miserable imitation of it in a kind of sackcloth on the dragoman of the Caimacan, who put his nose almost to the ground for it.  Then seven cloth and dark fur pellices were distributed and put on by Pisani (before the Caimacan) who it seems has the allotment of them, calling over the names from a paper, which has a bad effect, then about ten white pellices with stuff were given, one of which I got; and then a few gowns without fur.  This was a most tedious time.

The room a small one, quite full and running with sweat, the Turks crowding and treading on your toes.  The ambassador then rose, and the Caimacan with him, when we all hustled out of the room as quick as we could and I very nearly lost my horse.  We proceeded as before, except that there were a number of Turks sent by the Caimacan preceding the Ambassador to see him to his boat, where we got at last, the streets being crowded everywhere, but not so as to retard the procession at all.

We crossed to Tophana, the frigate again saluting, and went up to the palace as we came down, except that the marines played off the drums and fife, to the great scandal and annoyance of the French and with a very paltry effect, as they had only their side arms.

I dined at the Palace but Byron did not, indeed I found him packing up and going the day after but one to Smyrna by way of Mickalitch.132

Pisani dined at the Palace, and told some curious yarns.  Mustapha Bairactar133 was taken in by a great dinner given by the Janissaries at Sweet Waters, dismissed his troops, and two days afterwards had his house set fire to, and was obliged to act out his catastrophe.134  When Selim resigned, he had 35,000 men devoted to him not far from the capital, but he took fright, went to the Mufti, [and] asked him what he must do.  The Mufti could not advise,135 so he wrapped himself up in the robes of Mahomet, and seating himself in a corner of the Seraglio (mosque, I believe) told his attendants to bring his successor, for that he would reign no more.  One of the chief actors in the rebellion was one Mustapha Pasha – [the] Caimacan.  He had been for twenty years the sport of many of the ruling Turks – had been removed from136 his Pashlicks, had lost his tails, &c., all which he bore with a patient shrug,137 but when he came into office, determined to pay himself his debt of revenge, which he did most fully and became a most bloody138 man in a most bloody revolution – the first heads that he cut off were those of the Reis Effendi and the Kiagha Bey,139 two old and innocent men.  He led the Sultan to believe that this would appease the Janissaries, but when the heads were presented in platters before them the soldiers exclaimed “No, no!  These are not the heads we want!”

Mustapha was in his turn beheaded by Bairactar.

Pisani mentioned that many Turks were authors of elegant compositions, many historical, but that fear prevented them from publishing their labours.

He told a story of two blind beggars, one of whom always called on the name of God and the other on the name of the Sultan Mahamut.  They had a pleasant dispute on which was the more efficacious mode of petition.  The Sultan came to hear of it, and ordered the man who called on the name of the Sultan to be given a duck stuffed with zecchins – the blind man put it in his wallet.  Meeting his friend at night, he asked him what luck he had had that day by calling on the name of God. “I have got eight paras,” said he. – “Then you are more lucky than I, for I have only got a duck which was given me at the Seraglio gate,” rejoined the other, “I will buy your duck.  Here are five paras.” – “You shall have it.  I am in no humour for duck tonight.”  The beggar soon ate his way to the money, and when the other man found the bad bargain he had made, “Ah!” he cried, “God has done more for you than the Sultan has for me – he gave me a roasted duck, but he never told me it was stuffed with zecchins.”

This story is stupid enough, but Pisani seemed to think it very good.140

Tuesday May 29th 1810

Up eight.  Breakfasted at the Palace, and afterwards went with Captain Bathurst and a large party from the ship in a boat up the harbour to the spot where the city wall141 begins to cross the peninsula.  There, after waiting some time near a large burying ground, got horses and proceeded by the walls.  They are most picturesque, shaded with large trees, and are three in number. one rising above the other, the inner wall having octagonal towers at short intervals, and in most places very nearly entire, with the ancient battlements.  The outer ditch is now cultivated, and the inner filled up nearly.

We passed by Selivria Copse, and Adrian Copse,142 and other gates, then turned off to the right to see a small church, Agia Panagia,143 where we saw a fish in a little cold fountain lighted up in the chapel, of which they tell this story: when Constantinople was besieged by Mahomet the Second,144 the last of the Cæsars145 was eating in company with a priest on this spot by the side of the fountain.  News was brought to him that the Turks had made a breach in the walls – “That” said the Emperor, “is no more possible than [that] that fried fish on my plate should ever swim in the water again”.  On his saying the word, the fish jumped out of the plate into the water – and the city was taken.  The fish they show is of the same species, they say, i.e., if fried, and in like circumstances, would jump into the water, is now more than 100 years old, and has never been less or will be bigger than it is now.  Its size is about that of a minnow.

We returned to the walls, came to where the first breach was made where there is now a bridge, and also to where Constantine was killed – Egeri Kapua146 – then entered at the gate next to the Seven Towers,147 into which we tried to enter, but were stopped at the gate.  The Seven Towers form eight.148  The angle of the city walls on this side – the length of the walls on this side is reckoned an hour and a half.

We were near that time going fast, but then we went out [of] our way and stopped at one or two of the little coffee-houses, something like those pot-houses on the Islington Road, to take some refreshment, (water and cherries), under the shade of a large tree or two.  We hardly saw one person on the road, so that you might easily suppose the walls to surround a city in ruin, rather than one of the most populous capitals in the world.

Not finding our boat at the Seven Tower stairs, we rode on, keeping near the wall, not on the sea side, through mean streets, with few people stirring.  At last, came to a large printing-cotton manufactory, which we visited, the work all done by hand.  Walked then to a range of coffee-houses, much of the better sort, by the side, where were sitting a crowd of Turks, well-dressed, smoking and listening to some pretty airs of a fiddle and guitar – these coffee-houses are where the story tellers, or meddahs, resort, and are the only theatres of Constantinople.149  The coffee-houses are generally well-contrived, with marble seats and benches, [and] a fountain playing in the middle.  Some of the recesses, or niches, are furnished with a pillow and stuffed carpet or mat, where the Turks sleep undisturbed amidst all the noise of the company.  In many places there are conveniences of this kind on the outside of the coffee-house, but no-one disturbs or notices the sleeper, who in London150 would have his pocket picked and a thousand practical waggeries passed upon him.

We dined on kebab at a wine-house not far off, where some jolly young Turks, the bloods of the quarter perhaps, came and regaled with wine and fruit and got exceedingly tipsy, screaming out at intervals, which is their method of being posing and jovial.  They made us drink with them.

We got into our boat, rowed round Seraglio Point151 (Ackor Kopse, where are the Sultan’s stables) and passed the little green wooden projection from the Seraglio walls, called Balik Hane.  There is one small kiosque-chamber, where the deposed Vizier is sent through a gate from the Seraglio gardens close behind to wait his sentence, and a less[er], single chamber by itself near it, where the prisoner is carried to lose his head.  Pass by several kiosques of the seraglio …152 got on shore, where the cannon are under wooden sheds.  Get into one of the two big ones on my knees – walked along to the boat-houses of the Sultan, saw his large golden barge with a little wooden chamber to hide him from the eyes of his people.  Came to the green <kiosque>153 (pavilion, the outer part being canvas or cloth) where he takes leave of the Grand Vizier when he goes to the army (so Mustapha said, but I believe it not), and here we saw a long silver chair or sofa.

Opposite the water there we embarked and rowed over to Tophana, having thus, by boats, riding, and walking, compassed the whole of Constantinople, stoppages included, from nine to half-past four.  Over the gate leading into the Seraglio gardens near the cannon are some large fish-bones suspended by chains – the Turks say they belong to some giant (Voyage de Benjamin fils de Jonas).154

The last mentioned <kiosque> pavilion is called Tali-Kensch / Teschrid,155 and as there is a spacious open place round it, it is used on certain solemnities, when the Grand Signor seats himself on his silver throne, tents being pitched for the Grandees of the Empire, and the Foreign Ministers, and views games of several kinds, and fireworks – so says Baron D’Atenfels156 – also that the enclosure of the Seraglio is equal to that of Vienna within the ramparts, i.e. 2,000 toises.157  The considerable kiosques from Balikhame to the green pavilion are,  1) Indschouli-Kiosch or the Pearl Pavilion;  2) Mermer-Kiosch, or the Marble Pavilion, supported by five columns of verde antique – and near which within the Seraglio you can see the Corinthian pillar158 of white marble fifty feet high, with this inscription: “Fortunæ reduci ob devictos Gothos” on the pedestal;  3) Yali-Kiosch.159

Seven Towers only five.  Kauffer’s plan of the city160 the best.

Dined at the Palace – a cold dinner at six – beat at chess by Mr Bidwell, to whom I had offered a piece on his saying he could not play at all.

Wednesday May 30th 1810

This evening [I] was informed by Mr Maltass at the Palace that the Armenians, who seem so poor and despicable when abroad or in Constantinople, enjoy every luxury when at home.  Their villas on the banks of the Bosphorus are furnished with every luxury, and in their retreats of Belgrade, where they are unmolested by the Turks, they keep up a continual festival of dancing and feasting and singing during day and night.  He mentioned that the Greeks would undergo the annexed penalty, sometimes death, for wearing yellow boots and slippers, which is the privilege of none but protected Greeks.  The first act of Sultan Selim’s reign was to cut off the head of a Greek whom he met with this distinction when incognito, and he stayed to see the execution performed.  The purser of the Sea Horse and a woman crossed the street before him as he was going incognito.  He ordered them to be bastinado’d.  He was told that one of the offenders was an English officer, and only the woman was cudgelled.

Prince Marousi161 the dragoman, who interpreted for Mr Adair to the Caimacan, has a large house which he has painted of three colours, so as to look like three houses, that no passing Turk may be struck with the presumptuous dimensions of his mansion and obtain his prescription at the Porte, and yet this and other Greek princes, the descendants and kindred of the princes of Moldavia and Wallachia,162 keep a kind of court in the interior of their own houses, where they are courted by the servi servorum163 of their own sect.  The rayahs164 are not allowed to paint their houses of a lively colour.  A physician who had cured a Sultan was desired to name some recompense for his deserts – he only requested permission to paint his house according to his own taste – the house is still shown.

Stayed at home all this day till dinner-time, when dined at the Palace.

Thursday May 31st 1810

Breakfasted at half-past seven at the Palace.  Went to the ship, and from thence in the large cutter up the Bosphorus, a continuation of wooden houses interspersed with palaces of the Sultans and some better-most sort of people, for two hours.  The ground behind being high and well covered with wood, in some places also adorned with hanging gardens.  The whole view wider on both sides, being something entirely unrivalled.  Came in half an hour more to Buyuckdere165 or the village on the bay.  In this deep bay on the left you are fronted with the most beautiful prospect of high waving hills, covered with verdure and terminated with a belt of fine wood, like the plantation of an English park.

Arrived at Buyuckdere, where is a street along the sea-side, chiefly composed of houses belonging to Franks.166  Visited Mr Adair in the house of a Count Ludolf, an honest man who has lost his property in Italy by adhering to the King of Sicily,167 whose resident he is and who pays him nothing.

Set out in Mr Adair’s country boat to the Black Sea, keeping on the Europe side.  The ground becomes higher and less cultivated as you go on on both sides, till at last in the mouth of the Bosphorus you pass by the side of dark rocky precipices.168  With no appearance of that culture, &c., that you have left, you may easily forget your vicinity to the capital, and a voyageur from the Euxine might suppose himself approaching a barren inhospitable land.

In two hours from Buyuckdere came to the Cynaean rocks,169 just opposite and at a little distance from the village of Phanasaki, where is the light house.  Ascended the Black Rocks – not extensive – got on and made a circuit – altar or pedestal still there, five feet high, near six170 in circumference, with a garland and ram’s head in bas-relief carved round it, and cut with modern names.  On the top are several oblong grooves, so that perhaps this was not the whole of the column.

Descended, got into the boat, and rowed round, so [as to] have a view beyond the last Europe point in the Black Sea – saw that the land recedes suddenly backwards more than on the Asian side, so that the entrance into the straits is abrupt, and, as Mr Canning well observed, a person entering them might think them the mouth of some mighty sea monster, the several white forts171 on each side having the resemblance of teeth.  Tasted the water of the Black Sea and all agreed it to be only brackish.

Returned again near the Asian side under the Giant’s Hill, to Buyuckdere in an hour.  Dined at Count Ludolf’s with Mr Adair, who said that the framers of the Austrian match with Bonaparte172 were those Germans who had estates in the Pays-Bas, those who had estates on the frontiers, and some Hungarians.  The Emperor meant it only as a sacrifice for peace, but these men had interested views.  General Marmont173 has ordered the Turks out of the part of Bosnia ceded by the Emperor to the French.

Returned at quarter past seven.  Men tipsy.  Captain Bathurst thumped one of them.  Each side of the canal lighted by a thousand fires.  Passed Turkish fleet, and were hailed, which is extraordinary – came home.  Byron asked me how I did – and then turned sulky, and so went to bed.174

N.B.  Mahomet’s tower is reckoned half way to Buyuckdere, and the narrowest part of the Bosphorus.

Friday June 1st 1810

This morning in bed received a letter from a friend dissolving partnership, to which replied in pencil as well as my surprise would suffer me to do.175  Again reason to remember “expertus metuit”.176  Walked out, it being a cold blowy day, to the Xtian burying ground and Mrs Arbuthnot’s ugly monument.177

Dined at Palace.  Came home, &c., &c.

Saturday June 2nd 1810

Walked out with Mr Ekenhead down to the wood-wharf of Dolma-batchi, Sultan’s present residence, then through Tophana and Galata to the ruins of Pera.  Home.  Dined with Byron and Mr Ekenhead and Mr Mitchell178 at a new inn – not so good as Marchand’s.179

Sunday June 3rd

Rode out with Byron to Mahomet’s Tower,180 or rather the hill above it, where the Bosphorus appears like a majestic river running between lofty and woody banks – chosen for the beauties of its situation to be the site of a suite of villages.  Just opposite is the lovely country house of the Bosphterunyee Basha,181 on a green, with clumps of trees and two fresh-water streams, looking like an English park.

Rode thence to the Valley of Sweet Waters, through the village and down by the canal and straight avenues, to the kiosque in ruins,182 where is a battery of cannon pointing up the valley, and where the water falls over a cascade of marble steps.  Under some larger trees were dining parties, smoking parties, and a Jew conjuror playing off to a French party.

Returned.  Dined at the Palace and hear that Sir Francis Burdett183 has been sent, after a three days’ struggle, to the Tower.  Cool as England, and cooler.

Monday June 4th 1810

King’s birthday.184  Frigate dressed and fired twenty-one guns, as did the [  ].  Walked into Constantinople with Mr Ekenhead – saw the house where they burn and pound coffee in large quantities – pour it by hand.  Visited the mad-house.185  Twenty-five confined, but in a most miserable condition, rags and filth – a chain round their necks, attached to the iron bars of the windows in the seats of which they were seated.

To the Aurat Bazaar,186 a wretched kind of mews, Tusuk Bazaar, where are the writers of manuscripts (Banchi: Comment. p.615. Vol II).187  This is a trade, and as I saw seems to me very neatly performed – some pages illuminated.  Here is paper.  Books are sold.188  Went under the aqueduct of Valens.189  Visited the fine court of Salimanie,190 granite pillars very magnificent and very <noble> convenient structures for schools and hospitals.  Came to a range of coach-houses, where are covered coaches, gilt for ladies, driven by horse, but without springs.

Returned – dined at the Palace.  A grand fête in the hall.  Table in a cross:

After dinner, which was half figures and flowers,192 Mr Adair got up and gave the King’s health, when three “Hourras!” were given from the next room by the servants, which had a funny effect.  Stayed some time.  Pisani,193 after I had drunk wine once with him, sent me this note: “My dear Sir! You have, I know, no objection to a glass of wine.  Will you take one with your humble servant Mr Pisani.”  (This was written by Mr Canning.)194  He also sent one to Canning.  At dinner were present Mr Palin the Swedish minister, Mr ———, the Spanish resident, and Count Ludolf, the Sicilian.195  Mr Palin is an antiquarian.196  Sir W. Ingleby  M.P.197 – funny little fellow.  Sat next him, and [he] told me, “God, Sir he’s a wonderful fellow – he reads the Owls and Elephants like Α and δ.”

Tuesday June 5th 1810

Called on Mr Palin, who showed me a very large collection of coins, and some Egyptian knick-knacks.  He does read the Owls and Elephants: takes up a little cylinder, and gives you a verse of the Psalms, as if the Hebrew were the sacred language of the Egyptians.  He says the Patriarchs wrote in hieroglyphics – he has a Pascanium Niger, and one of his wife.198

Stayed at house, till dinner, when dined at ye Palace, Mr Adair at table.

Wednesday June 6th 1810

Set off at nine for Belgrade.199  Road over wild ugly down country, till came to the woods of Belgrade, which are most thick and beautiful.  Came to Belgrade, sunk in the bosom of the wood with a pretty village green and a stream running at the bottom of the valley – rode some way farther on by the side of one of the large reservoirs which supplies Constantinople.  It is railed off, and as the wood goes down to the water’s edge has the effect of a large lake in a park not unlike Bowood in Wiltshire.200  Came to where the tank is dammed-up with stones to a considerable height.  Got off.  Lounged about.  Here in the woods are winding paths, and the most romantic forest scenery is viewed at every turn.

Returned to Belgrade to Mrs Pisani’s, formerly Lady Mary Wortley Montagu’s,201 but rebuilt by Sir Robert Ainslie.202  It is on an elevated spot in the village, standing alone, and better situated than any other house in Belgrade, as from the windows there is a view of part of the reservoir amidst the forest, which is not seen from other spots, and the water has the appearance of a winding river, as you neither see one end nor the other.

Rode through the thick noble wood to Buyuckdere, and on a sudden burst upon the view of the Bosphorus, and the hills and mountains beyond.  Just where you stand is the large aqueduct Zoun, of Theodosius, rebuilt by Sultan Selim,203 running from one hill to the opposite eminence across a narrow valley.  It has a double row of arches [sketch] and you pass through it down the valley to Buyuckdere.  On a meadow near this village they were making hay, which had an English appearance to us.  It was done in the English style.

Dined out at the Hotel d’Europe, kept by a Finiote204 who has been in England, and knew Lord Byron’s uncle.205  Returned in the evening to Constantinople over wild downs, passing by the water forces, and did not get home till nine.

Messenger arrived from England – brings a letter from Hudson206 to Byron – tells him the Collection207 is accused of indecency.

Thursday June 7th 1810208

Surprised this morning by a visit from Cockerel,209 my old Westminster chum, who is come out here on architectural purposes in the Black Joke lugger.210  He has a strange smile about him.211  Byron and myself dined at the Palace.  Mr Adair told us of Mr Fox,212 that he was close to him at his interview with Bonaparte213 – that Fox had no private interview with the other.  That Bonaparte defended the slave trade – that turning from a fat man who had been calling him the pacificateur du monde, he said to Mr Fox, “Here’s a fellow would make one believe he is glad of the peace – and he’s a Hamburg214 merchant who has been profiting from the misfortunes of our two nations, during the war”.  He called out to another man, “Eh bien, comment vont les amours?”

Friday June 8th 1810

Did nothing.  Dined at home.  Employed the evening, and till four in the morning, writing to Matthews.215

Saturday June 9th 1810

Went in a boat to Buyuckdere, with Mr Ekenhead and Lord Byron, who frightened me by tipping the boat all the way.  From Buyuckdere passed over to the Grand Signior’s Scale,216 where is a paper manufactory.  Here is a fine meadow shaded by large straight oaks, and here the ladies of the Seraglio frequently come in the summer,217 and parade getting into arabats.218

Jaunt up the beautiful valleys to the reservoir and fish and dine.  We rode through a mowed meadow, and, winding up the hills, had peeps of the valleys opening upon us from below.  Arrived at the Giant’s Hill,219 where is his tomb, a flowerbed more than fifty feet long, with a stone turban laid [at] the head and feet.  From this spot a fine view of the winding of the Bosphorus and of the Black Sea, but not so good as that which we enjoyed on a barren hill a little farther on, whither we went and turned down to the old [  ]220 castle.

We returned by the same road to the Scale and passed over to Buyuckdere.  Dined, and came home by eight.  Finished my letter to Matthews.

Two Χαμαιτυπες,221 but not touchable, one having black teeth and the other being a perfect Gorgon.

Sunday June 10th 1810

Did nothing all day but dined at the Palace, where stayed till late with Mr Cockerell, who says he has a friend whom he loves as a brother.222  He did indeed talk of him with tears in his eyes.

Monday June 11 1810

Read part of the fourth number of the Quarterly223 which seems to me a most inferior performance, full of religious and political bigotry, and not half enough severe, especially not on such a blundering booby as Kett:224 except from this the review of Philipatris Varvinsky.225  Walked out to Armenian burying ground – saw Yanne226 with a Surgee riding, I having my pistols.227  Dined at home alone.

Tuesday June 12th 1810

Rode with Byron to Purgos, a village between two large aqueducts of Justinian – running across the valley, the last fifty-four arches double till you get to this valley.  The ride over dreary downs, but here well-wooded and picturesque.  Turned back and went through the woods to Belgrade, passing by other small aqueducts and by the side of a stream – the road like a park.  Walk through the finest trees for more than an hour, then arrive at the large reservoir, which we had seen before.

Thence to Belgrade, and from Belgrade, to Constantinople by seven o’clock – dreadful diarrhoea.

Wednesday June 13th 1810

Walked with Captain Bathurst and Mr Canning to Dolma Bashi Gardens,228 where took coffee – diarrhoea again.  Dined at Palace with Byron.  Turks lost 5,000 men, &c. …229

Thursday June 14th 1810

Forget all that happened on this day.230

Friday June 15th 1810

Went on board to breakfast.  Afterwards, in jolly-boat, went to Seven Towers, thence walked all along the walls, 118 towers, in one hour seventeen minutes.  Crossed the water to the Bombardiers’ Stairs.231  Walked over the hills by the Mahometan Pillar through the villages to Pera, then to the frigate.  Dined, and in the evening saw a play on board232 – home late.

Saturday June 16th 1810

Rainy day.  Did not go out, except to dine at the Palace – find that the presents of shawls and clothes sent to the embassy in return for the peace presents are, except Adair’s, old, darned and washed, whereas the Sultan’s dagger given by King George cost 30,000 piastres.  Mr Canning very feelingly discanted on the humiliation to which Xtian missions are reduced.

Sunday June 17th 1810233

With Mr Maltass,234 Mr Cockerel, and Mr Dale,235 rode across the peninsula and back by the walls.  Dined at inn with the same.  Mr Maltass mentioned the utter insufficiency of Charles Arbuthnot and Wellesley Pole,236 the latter of whom went to the Reis Effendi,237 flung himself on the sofa, threw up his legs and delivered a note: “If the princes of Wallachia and Moldavia are not reinstated,238 an English fleet of twenty sail shall come and burn down Constantinople – I’ll be damned if they shan’t”.  An order was given to this effect and Pole galloped in thirty minutes to Buyuckdere [and] entered crying “Victoria!” – told his exploit to the Miss Chanouskies,239 who were spies.  Sebastiani240 heard of it, told Selim241 of Poole’s triumph, and the event242 followed.  Arbuthnot congratulated the merchants at having saved their lives,243 ran away, and afterwards sent Maltass, at the hazard of being cut to pieces, with a flag of truce when the fleet were at Princes’ Islands.  They stayed fourteen days.  The second day was a strong southerly wind – did nothing – and then Arbuthnot fell sick.  Arbuthnot, whose boldness was praised in the dispatch, was down in the cockpit.244

Up the Bosphorus is a red house, Gaout Serai, a—e palace, the mont of the resistance245 and the prize of a fat youth of eighteen, who won it as the only way of obtaining his favours from his lover.  Maltass says the French commit sodomy with women – came home half-past nine.

Monday June 18th 1810

Rode out with Byron on the downs towards Sweet Waters – dined at the Palace.

Tuesday June 19th 1810

Up seven.  Proceeded with a large party to visit the mosques.  First to Santa Sophia246 – a large nave, but two pillars large for the arches they support, and the capitals of a most corrupt style, the effect spoilt by the thousand lamps, large eggs, tails and ornaments hanging very low from the dome, and the miserable little white and red and blue painting in squares about the higher part of the church.  The floor of fine granite and porphyry, and verd antique, covered with mats.  Went up into the first gallery, which is broad – opposite the altar niche observed that the line of the nave did not appear at right angles with the altar niche, which effect, produced by the high marble pulpit of the preacher on the right hand being brought forward, and the mats being so disposed, as to make the middle of the niche pointed to the southward of east, i.e. to Mecca (ancient temples ran east and west)247 observe [on] the marble doors the cross erased, the singular effect of the flat-looking dome.

We did not go up to the upper gallery, which is railed, but will admit only one abreast to light the lamps.  Several men sold pieces of the mosaic which had tumbled from the dome.  We could not make out the form of the cross into which Greek churches are said to be built – outside, the mass supported by huge buttresses.

Proceeded to Sultan Ahmet,248 which has a very fine exterior court, extensive, with colonnades, supported by granite columns.  In the mosque there is nothing grand – the dome much smaller than Santa Sophia.  Four immense, ill-proportioned columns, spoilt also by bad painting and the usual little lamps.  Here the curtain or door of the temple of Mecca, which is brought annually away when a new one is sent by the Sultan.  Over one of the highest-reaching pulpits in Sophia are the two small banners of Mahomet II, when he took Constantinople.249  In the recess of this and the other large mosques we saw men reading in one place, children in school in another – here a man stretched out asleep – and Turks lounging about – doors of brass.

Went to little Sophia,250 exactly in the middle of large Sophia, with a Greek inscription running round the cornice – something about Justinian.  A poor, mean place.

Next visited Nourri Osmanie (la lac d’Osman),251 which is very elegant in one high-light dome rising directly from the sides, not from pillars, of white marble built by Greek architects in 1755 – saw sarcophagus.

Next went to Sulymanie,252 which is the most magnificent and though perhaps not quite so large, far preferable to Santa Sophia, being lighter and better coloured.  Here are the four immense porphyry columns, sixty feet high, from Ephesus, giving the principal support to the dome.  Here on one side of the aisles is a library in departments.253  Entered by figured, open gates of bronze, but apparently not very extensive – this was built by Suleiman I, and has schools, hospitals, and alms-house attached to it.  There is also a fine colonnaded court to it, besides a yard with fountains and trees.  The ground entrance-gate to the court is of a singular taste, like the top of an ornamental bishop’s cathedral chair [sketch] or stall, with a flight of steps.

Visited the Janissaries’ Tower254 close by – a very fine view of the whole city, except that part shut out by the mosque.  Peninsula narrow – no comparison with London.

Went on board by one o’clock.  Took beefsteak.  Home.  Caputan Pashaw dressed as galinger on horseback, and the other day a great man255 sitting in disguise on the gunners’ bench opposite Marchands, a regular palace spy.

Dined at Palace.  N.B. put on yellow slippers when we went into the mosques.

Wednesday June 20th 1810

Blowing a hurricane from the north, so could not cross the water, as intended, to Scutari – stayed at home all day except at the Palace in the evening.

Thursday June 21st 1810

Went a pretty ride by Dolma Bachi, up the valley to Star Serai, built by Sultan Selim,256 where is a grand prospect of coast, and over the Bosphorus, and the Sea of Marmora.  Rode to Mahomet’s Tower, thence home.  Dine at Palace.

Friday June 22nd 1810

Breakfast at Palace.  Went over to Scutari with Mr Canning, to Bourgaloe,257 thence to Fanar-Baktchessi,258 where dined à Turkish with three young Georgian boys and several slaves who attended the boys.  Returned to Palace late and dined.

Written on the back of the late treaty between Francis and Napoleon (one of whose titles therein is Beschütser des Rhomisch),259 and turned:

Saturday June 23rd 1810

Rode out with Captain Bathurst and a party across the Sweet Water Valley to Däout Pacha,260 three hours to Pera, where is a kiosque and mosque, and fine plane trees.  Here the Turks encamp when moving to Adrianople.261  The face of the country here is immense – waving downs as far as can be seen, and near coast well-cultivated, with corn like a Wiltshire down.262  Rode back, but not the same way; up and down high, uneven hills to a barrack, and thence to a village, or rather suburb, beyond the walls.  Thence under high, large plane trees, walnut trees, and up the Valley of Sweet Waters – cross the bridge, and home.  Dine at the Palace, &c.

Sunday June 24th 1810

Do nothing, and dine at the Palace.

Monday June 25th 1810

Went in the morning on a visit to my friend Cockerell.  Walked out with him.  Met Captain Bathurst in the burying grounds, and walked down to Dolma Batchic [and] back.  Dined at home … and went in the evening with Cockerell to Mr Marchand’s, where met Mr Gropius,263 and heard curious account of Turkish justice, exemplified in his own case.  Also a Mr Foster,264 who cried at entering the Parthenon.

Tuesday June 26th 1810

Went out with Captain Bathurst and a party to see the Howling Dervishes.265  At Atmeidan waited some time in the cloisters of a mosque built by a vizier, with a court and very large plane trees, cells, &c., &c., and fountains, now apparently unfrequented.  On the hill above are several marble pillars, as the marks of the Sodophysyte Sultan (see Olivier).266  We were informed that this religious ceremony did not take place except when there was a sufficient audience collected.  After staying some time in a little ante-court, hearing the singing and praying in the small room of ceremony, entered whilst there were a large party singing, or rather bawling, in a dirty deal apartment filled up at one end with several flags in the centre, axes, swords, small drums on one side, and a silk lettered cloth on the other, which they say is part of Mahomet’s tent, the rest being at Vienna.267

Here were three principals kneeling and waving their heads sideways to the music, and in the right-hand corner a small,268 black, starving, thin fellow, kneeling also, and contorting himself in every horrid and ridiculous gesture, now and then becoming furious and knocking his arms and head violently against the ground, and at last opening his half-opened shirt below his navel and led off as a maniac.269  Then the principals advanced, the vulgar, not monks, forming three sides of the oblong and in the middle six persons sitting or squatting down.  The singing began from those squatting, the whole keeping up chorus, which seemed to be the name of God.  They continued waving backwards and forwards and sideways, all close together, howling and grunting, to a kind of tune that at last was lost in an exclamation: “Yullah Illah!”,270 when they jumped and jogged themselves into that which appeared to me a sensual ecstacy, from certain symptoms in the youngest part of the performers (who are promiscuous, introducing themselves only by kissing the principal’s hands, &c.)

The principals only jogged their heads and moved on their heels and seemed half in joke – as many were – especially a person or mosque-reader, who accompanied us and joined in the jogging and howling to great effect, as I saw by his hiding his fork with his robe.271  During this time the chief entered.  He looked a red-faced fellow and whispered as if conducting a ceremony, with frequent “pishes” of anger.  (I must mention that before the violent howling and jogging began, an itchy scabby friar came round, and reverently took away every man’s turban, and placed it under the banners on that side of the room.)

After the howling, &c., there was a prayer, and all dispersed, going away to take pipes and coffee in an adjoining small chamber, to recruit them.272  They soon came back when a jug of water that the chief had blown into was handed round, and afterwards a shirt, consecrated before, or holy.  Two little children were also at intervals brought in and being laid on a mat before the chief, he stood first on their bellies and then on their backs and they were supposed, after he taking them up had breathed on them, to be cured of some complaint.

The howling and jogging then recommenced, then after some time was a prayer by the chief.  Then he took two men and ran needles, like netting needles, with curious handles, through one cheek, and through the thick skin above the windpipe.  After a short time he pulled these out, spitting on his fingers and wetting the wound and certainly nothing appeared, for we were close, and the performers brought the fellows near that we might see all fair.  At last a black curly-haired Egyptian, on the chief drawing out the needle, appeared to faint, fell down, stayed some time till the chief recovered him by puffing or spitting in his mouth, when he rose up, screaming out “Yollah!” in a convulsed manner, but, ridiculously, recovered in a moment.

This boring ceremony was performed on several, the jogging and crying still continuing.  Then the chief (who indeed only seemed chosen for the occasion as head of the conjuring) took out an ataghan,273 having first drawn several rusty swords – breathed on it – and gave it to a black Arab, who stripped to his waist and, after crying out several times on the name of God, applied [the sword] to the narrow of his belly as tight as possible, working his belly and the sword about in a very frightful manner, but without hurting himself, except leaving something like bloody scratches.  Whilst performing he cried out to us, “Bono? bono?”274 Then another black Arab took the ataghan, did the same and lay down, suffering the chief to stand on the knife when it was across his body.  The same fellow then took two sharp iron spikes with wooden globes filled up with iron chains and knobs, and appeared to drive them repeatedly (these also being breathed upon and blessed), so as almost to meet into his lower abdomen.  He seemed in a fury, and with an enthusiastic coquetry could scarcely suffer the priests to take the spikes from his hands.

Then followed half-a-dozen fellows, seemingly promiscuously chosen, holding red-hot irons (having licked them cooler), in their teeth – one fellow near us made dreadful faces and pulled the instrument out, but the others pretended that they were loath to part with them.  Then one of the Arabs swallowed several pieces of glowing charcoal, and without a trick, the coals, as all the other instruments being first solemnly breathed upon by the chief.

Whilst the burning ceremonies were going on, several tambourines were handed down from the wall, and beat upon by the company, some of whom seemed to enjoy the fooleries which they were encouraging.  During the whole time the whole party continued screaming and jumping, and did at last huddle all together into a ring, leaping round and round and squeezing the middle men to a jelly.

Such a mixture of religion and jugglery was never seen.  ’Twas very tedious, lasting from half-past one to half-past four.  We paid fifteen shillings for our seats, and were afterwards followed by the two Arabs (one of whom spoke a little English) asking for an additional reward for their tricks.  What is singular is that the dervishes appeared only directors of the ceremony, the principal performers being only common fellows.275

Dined at the Palace.  Told long stories about s<ec>ts276 and heard no new ones.

Wednesday June 27th 1810277

This morning at just past twelve, being my first entrance into a new year, erected a tablet to the twenty-fourth year of my life now departed.  Up at half-past ten.  Did nothing.  Copied map of Olivier’s Troy.278  Called on Cockerell – walked by myself into the Armenian burying-ground, lounged in the tombs for one hour and a half, and could not make out a birthday verse but this:

Put on a new blue Constantinopolitan coat, dined at the Palace and had my health drunk in punch by his excellency, Mr Bidwell, and the Doctor and most cordially by Captain Bathurst.  Wrote the journal from Sunday last.

Thursday June 28th 1810

Did nothing.  Dined with Cockerell; received a letter from my sister Charlotte, this being her birthday.

Friday June 29th 1810

Did nothing but ride with Byron to Levent Chiftlick, destroyed in the late rebellion,279 where the ruin is so complete as if a thousand years had intervened.  It was burnt down – here are remains of two sets of barracks for 15,000 men, an exercising ground well-planted with trees, which is a luxury never forgotten by the Turks, and [a] marble kiosk with a fountain all in ruins,280 two low domes erected over the walls enclosing the 500 Nizam Djedid281 destroyed in the rebellion on this spot – amongst the remains are those of a bath, an eating room, a powder-magazine, and other conveniences.  The entrance to the building is through an arch along an avenue of limes with stone reservoirs, and a garden still cultivated.  We stepped our horses over the ruins [at] a short distance [from] a hospital house still entire.

Dined at home, &c.

Saturday June 30th 1810

Walked with Captain Bathurst to the tents of Dolma Batchi.  Returned.  Dined at the Palace, &c.

Sunday July 1st 1810

Went to Buyuckdere – introduced to Mr Chanousky and daughters.282  Dined with Spanish minister, Mr Harvat, and lady.  Mr Adair present.  Walked on parade in the evening, Mr Adair joined by the internonce Maubourg.283  Passed in his barge.  Returned home.  This day, thundering over the hills.

Note: Mr Ekenhead’s mistake about Lord Chief Justice Holt and Lord Ellenborough – committing Mr Abbot.284

Janissaries bowing by putting their heads on one side.  Fine flowers, carnations &c.  Large [  ] of plane, lime, and walnut trees.285  No excessive heat.

Monday July 2nd 1810

Walked to the fine hill of Atmeidan286 with Captain Bathurst.  A party of Turks looking at arrow-sporting, which we did not make out for some time, the shooting being at such a distance as to be scarcely discernible287 – not shooting at a mark, but for distance only.

Dined at Palace – met Colonel Rooke,288 (called “Captain” by Adair) a singular fellow, an old grey-headed man who lives amongst the Islands, keeps a boat of a hundred tons, and has been here eight or nine years.  As rattling and as incorrect as a boy called Lambro.  Lambro Cazzoni!!289  Took up the cause of the Syriotes about Ferguson’s ship beating the town about290 … proposals for a squadron of small craft.  Septinsulars291 and others in these seas under British flag, and command very useful292 – numbers of ships here with French flag.  French and German cloth beat out the English, which is too dear.  Camlets only from England.

Drank a glass of Bergerac, alias Belgrade wine, with Byron, to our having been a year together out of England – – – – –293

Tuesday July 3rd 1810

Went with the Captain to Buyuckdere, to Marriot’s.294  Wet evening went to Mrs Zorab,295 who sung.  Her husband, an Armenian, mentioned some things of the Revolution.296

Wednesday July 4th 1810

Walked at Buyuckdere with Bathurst.  Called on Ludolf297 and Spanish Minister.298  Walked up the hill above the first castle of the Bosphorus – pretty view of the narrow valley beneath, and a road winding through it.  One side of the hill covered with vineyards.

Returned.  Dined at Marriot’s.  In the evening took boat to the meadow, where walked, and saw the large tree, or rather circular clump of large trees: a plane.

Returned to Pera late.  Story told that the Capitan Pasha tore off a Frenchman’s eyeglass299 with his own hands.

Thursday July 5th 1810

Rode out with Byron down Valley of Sweet Waters where he bathed.300  Dined at Palace.

Friday July 6th 1810

Breakfasted with Canning, who let me read a short didactic on the pleasures of eating much, and also an official account, written by himself, of the three late revolutions, which I recollected as well as possible, and wrote down on the end of this book.301

Dined on board the frigate at two o’clock,302 and stayed all the evening.

Saturday July 7th 1810

Received an account from Mr Dale that a Turk has been bastinado’d this morning, for being one of the police, and knocking down both the English sailors engaged in a row, and the Genovese engaged with them according to custom, &c.  A Turk ordered to be beheaded.  Rode out with Byron to Sweet Waters.  Turned down the valley, rode over above the Jews’ quarter, up to the Atmeidan, and by the thousands of sepulchral stones on the side of the hill.  Passed by St Demetrius,303 the Topegies’ barracks, and home – dined at Palace, and home.

N.B.  Foot soldiers.  Beat on the beach.  Horse on the feet.  All the guard broke this day.  The Captain fled.  Mr Adair sent down instantly fifty Janissaries to apprehend them – what imperia in imperio!304

The Armenians are divided into Schismatics and Catholics.305  The first / last have no churches, and go to the Catholic chapels of Franks, but till lately were most powerful, the Patriarch being of their persuasion – a late Patriarch ordered a convert from the Schismatics to the Catholics to receive 500 blows – he has power, except of life and death, over all Armenians – this from Mr Zorab.306

Sunday July 8th 1810

Did nothing but ride out on the road to Sweet Waters, to try a pair of Cukenruyter’s pistols.  Made no good shots.  Dined at Palace, and home.

Monday July 9th 1810

Did nothing.  Walked out with Mr Meyers.  Dined at Palace.

Tuesday July 10th 1810: Audience of the Grand Signior307

Up at four.308  Proceeded half an hour after, much in the same order as on the day of audience with the Caimacan,309 to Tophana.  As we passed in the boats, the sun rose over the Mountains of Asia.310  The frigate saluted, and the sun, seen red through the clouds of smoke, and giving to these clouds a fiery red dun colour, presented a scene most indescribable.  As before, we visited the Chaoux Bashee, who had on a super robe of flowered gold, and the caftan over all.  As we were sitting there, heard the frigate saluting the Grand Signior in his passage from Dolma Bachi to the Seraglio.

We set off soon, with this Chaoux Bashee at the head of the procession, [and] with a suitable guard went through part of the city for half an hour, till we came to a tree.  There all waited for the Caimacan, who soon arrived from the Porte with his procession.  Passed by the Ambassador and suite, on his road to the Seraglio.  We waited a short time, and then followed him.  He was dressed in his best court dress, a bright green satin, and his turban of state.

In nearly another half hour we arrived at the first gate of the Seraglio.311  Passed through it on horseback, and through the first large court, where is, on the left hand, the Xtian church of Irene.312  The next gate of the Seraglio313 is up a slight ascent, and the guards and officers of the Porte alone being drawn out, and the procession moving onwards with the variety of splendid head dresses and robes, had at a distance a very good effect.  We dismounted before about a hundred yards from entering the second gate, and then, in an instant, all our state seemed lost, for we were shown into a small, dark, dirty room, at the left side of the porch, where we remained huddled together in complete darkness, some of us mistaking our way into a piss chamber.314  It seems we were put in here that we might just enter the second court at the time that the Janissaries ran for the pilau,315 which is placed in numberless small dishes, and scrambled for.

The second court is considerably smaller than the first, and shaded with rows of cypress trees – it is also colonnaded on all sides.  Opposite the entrance is the third entrance gate, on the right, the Seraglio kitchens316 – on the left, an open space with a fountain, and the Divan317 – the middle space is a green shaded well.

On entering the Divan we found the Caimacan already seated on a cushioned bench (something like our Court of Chancery), his seat being a little raised on his left hand.  At a short distance were seated the Cadelaschears of Romania and Natolia,318 the first in a green turban.  On the bench on the right hand entering were seated three tefterdars, or treasurers.  On a small bench on the left was sitting the officer employed in making the royal cyphers, which he was doing with a small camel-hair brush, as we were entering with great solemnity – Chelik Effendi.319  The room is small and vaulted, with three small windows in the dome admitting the light.  It is rather dark, but richly ornamented and wainscotted, with a plaster wall contrived to represent a pink variegated marble in the manner of ———.320  On the right is another vaulted chamber, about the same size, between which and the divan chamber there is only a division breast-high, so that it seems to light the Divan, which is rather too dark.  It was filled with the clerks and servants of the court.

The amabassador seated himself near Chelik Effendi.  A few whispers passed between him and the Caimacan by means of Prince Marousi,321 then a large party of officers with papers came bowing and reverencing in.  Something was read.  The Caimacan appended his signature to some papers, and they bowed out again – this was adjudging a cause.  Then came the payment of the Janissaries.  The money was brought in yellow purses of 500 piastres (nominally each but with such a real deficiency as on the whole to put about 150,000 piastres in the pocket of the first teftedar and friends).  It was heaped up in two wedged formed lines or prisms, on each side of the Caimacan, running lengthways from near his bench almost to the door of the room.  When these wedges were made, the proper officers began to till out the money – all this time no one said a word.

The Ambassador continued sitting.  All the others of the party are supposed to stand, but some of us, putting the dragoman and others before us, contrived to get a seat on the same board with him.  After the money had been once told out, they brought part of it into the outer court of the Divan, and thence conveyed it out (fifty bags at a time – the man telling it out with an audible voice), into the courtyard, placing [it] on the pavement, a little distance from the divan door.  At every fifty the teller exclaimed with a shout, “Orta twenty-three, &c. come!”322 and immediately a body of Janissaries of that regiment, who were stationed at some distance down the yard, and who were made [to] start fair,323 ran all as fast [as they] could, falling and scrambling upon them.  The reason of this is that each man that makes himself master of a bag receives one piastre for his pains.  This turbulent method of distributing the bags continued till all were disposed of, which was by nine o’clock; then some papers were read and signed.  A man read a list of officers of the Janissaries, who each in his turn came forward, kissed the lower hem of the Caimacan’s garment, returning thanks, I understand, for the payment.  (Montesquieu mentions that in a despotic government power is deputed entire.)324

At ten o’clock dinner was served.  The Ambassador alone sat at table placed before the Caimacan and dined with him.  Mr Canning, Captain Bathurst, Lord Byron,325 and myself dined at a table with Chelik Effendi, who was some time in arranging us, and seemed out of temper, objecting at first to my sitting on the bench next to him.  The dinner opened with rice, with soup – which we all dipped our little thin wooden spoons into, the table furniture being nothing but the spoon and a thin large cake of bread for each.  The meals we ate with our fingers, tearing out of the dish.  N.B. take care to use only the right hand in the dish, the left hand being reserved for abstencion of the anus.326

We were sent one dish at a time, two-and-twenty altogether, some being instantly taken off, as if Sancho’s dread doctor327 and his wand were there.  Getting up, they gave us no water, only the Ambassador, to wash hands, but sprinkled rose water about us.

In a short time a messenger arrived from the Sultan that he would receive the Eltschi,328 whose arrival and humble request to see him had been before communicated to him.  The Ambassador was accordingly led out towards the third gate of the Seraglio,329 but stopped under a wooden shed where there was only a dirty stone seat for him.  Two common-looking fellows came with two bags full of pellices, which were distributed to the party.330  We waited some time, quite overlooked.  Presently the two cadyaschers331 passed from the divan through rows of Janissaries bowing to them, and took their seat on a bench on the left side, entering the third gate, which was covered with ministers of state in tall white turbans.  The right side were guards (without arms, as was everybody) and directly before the gate, though at some distance, were standing three rows, twenty in all, of the tall plumaged gentlemen (Capiji Bashes, I hear).332  I soon saw the Cadelschee go into the third gate, and come shortly out again.

At last the Caimacan proceeded from the Divan to the Sultan, but in great state, two officers of state with large gilt silver staffs (which they banged on the ground) preceding him.  He stopped a very short time at the gate, and then went in.  In ten minutes, orders came for the Ambassador – our swords we had pulled off some time before we had the pellices.  Just before entering the porch there was some unseemly pushing and shoving, some who had not pellices being twirled out (Bates, Ekenhead, Jackson, Chamier).

At last we entered, a man on each side with a hand pressing on each shoulder.  I had only one man, or rather half a man, mine being one of the White Eunuchs333 who were standing in the third inner court.334  We went through a small court, or rather large room, open on both sides – on the right hand was a body of pages in very handsome gilt caps and white dresses.  We stepped up a low step, going on carpets into the next chamber, which was the presence chamber.  Comparatively small and dark, but hung round with silver ornaments and pearls and precious stones,335 it seemed full of people, but my eunuch pushed me forwards to a good place within twenty yards, or fifteen, or ten, of his Majesty,336 who was seated on his throne, like a bed with bed-posts, but very brilliant and elegant, with polished silver and pearls, of which the canopy appeared entirely formed.  The throne was placed badly in a corner, so that the Sultan was sitting close to a fire-place on his right, the Caimacan standing between – on his right hand was his sabre, partly drawn, supported by the cushion on his left, the silver covering enclosing the letter to King George, and near the left cushion a silver inkstand covered with jewellery.

He himself was clothed in a pellice of yellow satin with the blackest fur borders, his dagger and an ornament on his breast studded with diamonds, a white and blue turban, [and] a large diamond star, from which rose a tall straight bird of paradise plume.  He for the most part just kept a hand on each knee, scarcely moved his head, but rolled his eyes slowly, not looking directly at the Ambassador.337  Several times he stroked a turned-up beard, which was of a blackness not quite natural but giving him a most noble air.338  His eyes are jet black, and his features regular, except that his nose turns up a little, which however does not but improve his physiognomy339 (this is not an Ottoman feature).

We proceeded to the gate immediately after the Ambassador was in his place, and after making a small bow with his hand on his breast, he made his speech in a low tone which was interpreted in a tone still lower.  The Sultan then said a few words to the Caimacan, who proceeded to speak to the Ambassador, but hobbled340 most terribly (eighty-four years old) being prompted several times aloud by the Sultan.  He seemed to stop before he had concluded, but this does not much matter, as a dragoman of the Porte knows the speech beforehand.  This speech being interpreted, there was some little stop when the Ambassador seemed341 as if about to retire.  The Sultan whispered something to the Caimacan, who began hobbling another speech, and was again prompted.  This speech being interpreted and received, as was the other, with a low bow from the Ambassador, the Sultan took the King’s letter, and, saying a few words, delivered it to the Caimacan, who, kissing the sleeve of his Caftan and touching his forehead with the letter, said something, and delivered it to the dragoman, who reverenced it, interpreted, and gave it to Mr Adair, who bowed and almost immediately withdrew.

During the audience my Eunuch pressed my arms down pretty tightly, and when going out shoved me along, dismissing me from the outward step by a gentle push off.

Afterwards we went out of the second gate, mounted, and stayed a long time, till all the Janissaries had issued out running and roaming from the Seraglio, many of them quite children and all the very scum of the city in appearance.  Then we waited for the Caimacan to proceed first to the Porte, and at last, a little before twelve, set off as before, but went a nearer way to the waterside, where we crossed, were again saluted, proceeded from Tophana to the Palace, [and] went home directly by one o’clock.  The Sultan’s departure from his country seat was announced to us soon after leaving the audience, by the cannon of the frigate and the Seraglio.

Went to bed.  Got up at six, dined at Palace, a large party.  The dragomen dined and their wives came to tea.  Pisani told me that Bairactar342 considered that he had reconciled the Janissaries by the dinner which he gave to them at the Sweet Waters, where they and his Romelia militia, to the amount of 50,000, dined, and afterwards swore and crossed their swords to the establishment of the new system – “He did not know his countrymen,” said Signor Pisani.  During his administration, when the city was full of his Arnauts,343 not a theft nor a violence was committed.  It does not appear that from the first he was against the Janissaries.  When Sultan Selim gave up he had 10,000 armed men [in] the Seraglio.  Had he shut the outer gate, shown a cannon, [and] sent for his Scutari and Chislick troops, he would have subdued them at once, or had he cut off Mousa Pacha the Caimacan’s head the night before.  Djerid Pacha, off Acre,344 professed of their man that he would be the cause of great troubles, but he was generally thought the most submissive of all the Pachas, having been frequently deposed of his governments without a complaint.  He was beheaded – when?345

Wednesday July 11th 1810

Occupied about making up accounts.  Dined at home.

Thursday July 12th 1810

Accounts again.

Friday July 13th 1810

Walked out with Captain Bathurst to see a new Greek church, neatly built.  A great picture opposite the altar of the Day of Judgement, the Turks going to hell and Xtians to heaven.  Some of the saints near the altar very well-painted – a farewell walk to Dolma Bachi.  Dined at the Palace.

Saturday July 14th 1810

Embarked on board the Salsette at two o’clock p.m.346  Lord Byron saluted half after three.  Mr Adair came on board – he also saluted, seventeen guns – dined on board, but did not weigh till ten at night, as Mr Adair waited for some communication with Prince Marousi, dragoman of the Porte, in the absence of his brother.  All Princes’ brothers and children are Princes.  Going over the side, he thrust his hand into his bosom, and pulling out a handful of small zechins, gave them to two of the sidesmen.

Farewell to Constantinople.  Fine breeze and fine moonlight.

Sunday July 15th 1810

Off the rocky island of Marmora in the morning – fair breeze.  Sailed down the straits and through the beauti