Greece (edited from B.L.Add.Mss. 56527)

Wednesday September 20th 1809

At sea.

Thursday September 21st 1809

At eleven, a strange sail bore down – all hands on deck.  Everything ready – men at the guns – but proved to be a merchantman, a Greek from the Archipelago having been to Messina with corn.  Wrote this from the 14th.

Friday September 22nd 18091

At sea.  The surgeon of the Spider (Mr Swann) told me that the Moors of Barbary, after an entertainment, belch in the face of their host to show him that they have digested his good cheer.  This, if there be a row of them, they do one after the other – the revolutions in Barbary are carried into effect in five minutes, so that there have been eight Deys in a week.

Saturday September 23rd 1809

At nine, in the channel betwixt Cefalonia2 – a chain of high rocks with villages scattered at the foot of them, this being the most fertile part of the island, as Strané said – and Zante,3 a lower island on the south.  First saw ancient Greece – high mountains due east, and a small neck of low land – called Castel Tornese. [sketch.]  At half-past seven p.m. saw Ithaca,4 a land with two low hills, to the north-east of Cefalonia – wrote this.

Sunday September 24th 1809

At seven, mané5 in the channel entering the Gulf of Corinth.6  On the right, low lands stretching to Zante, covered with currant trees, running into the sea, of a most lovely appearance, with hills in the foreground crowned to the summits with trees – in the back, mountains of rocks of every shape.  On the left hand, a chain of rugged rocky mountains.

Chased a small boat7 – took her – laden with currants – three men – one a native of Ithaca.  Chased another boat – caught her – let her go.  At six in the evening fitted out the small boat taken in the morning as a privateer, with a gun carrying two pounds shot – went in her, with Mr Swann, surgeon, Mr Parker, midshipman, and ten men.  Pulled under the low land on the right of the Gulf – saw guns fired after sunset – and one sail pursuing another.  Let the first come close and fired the gun (called Murphy).  Turned out to be the jolly-boat, with a prize.  Took two of her men on board, boarded another boat with women sleeping.  Let her go, having Turkish passes – another with a Turkish soldier having a firman8 – let her go.  Saw nothing more of the jolly-boat immediately, this being now the break of day.

Monday September 25th 18099

Saw another sail.  Rowed for two hours, and coming within half gunshot, hoisted English colours, and fired a gun to bring her to.  Saw two men jump down into the hold, who returned with muskets, and fired upon us, their ship at the same [time] putting about to run away.  We answered her shot with Murphy and the muskets, myself sitting next to Mr Parker, who steered.  We kept up the chase half an hour – the ship firing very fast, and sending her shot through the sails and boat – every instant the bullets whistling round us, one passing within an inch of my ear, through the sail where I was standing.  A man, a foreigner, shot the next man but one to me in the thigh about four inches from the knee10 – fell down instantly, but desired us never mind him.  The ship getting away from us with a breeze, we doubted whether to proceed, but the wind dropping, stowed the wounded man away.  Loaded up all the muskets and Murphy with three round shot and gravel stones, and pulled up again without firing.  In a quarter of an hour came alongside – saw a Turk persuading his men to fire close upon us, but three jumped on board – and the men would have killed all on board with their lashes, had it not been for Mr Swann.  We forced them into the hold, and found she was a trebaculo,11 about seventy tons, a Turkish merchantman laden with iron, coffee, sulphur, and a cargo of Smyrna raisins belonging to a Greek on board, the most timid sneaking fellow I ever saw.  The Captain, a Turk, said he was from Malta, but fired on us because he thought we were Frenchmen.

We hoisted sail for Patrass,12 and about twelve, seeing a lateneer,13 hoisted Turkish colours and let her come down upon us.  Got out a small boat found in the Turk, and Mr Swann boarded her with three men, but finding nothing French let her go.  She had twelve men on board.  Beat up all day for Patrass – at six p.m., Mr Swann left us, taking five men in the old privateer, to look out for the night after boats.  Mr Parker and myself with two men and the wounded man being left to carry in the prize, kept the Turks below,14 employing one of the crew at a time to pump – ship leaking very fast.  A stiff breeze with a great swell coming on, we could not make Patrass, but anchored about nine o’clock some miles to the southward, in a bay not far from shore.

At two in the morning, saw a boat sailing and rowing towards us – prepared our arms – but hailed by Mr Swann in the privateer, who had driven two French boats on shore but taken nothing.

We, this being …

Tuesday September 26th 1809

… heaved anchor and bore up for Patrass with light breezes.  The dawn breaking over the mountains to the east, we took to the privateer – Mr Swann and five men, rowing for Patrass.  Came near it as the sun rose – beautiful appearance of the town and neighbourhood to the right, looking like the greenest fields and groves, rising up the mountain sides – the minarets glittering in the sun – striking view – ancient Greece.  The Gulf of Corinth small at the entrance, with high rocky mountains to the north.

On board the brig at seven – in an hour, the prize towed in by three boats – not condemned,15 but the Captain asked for bales of cotton that the man had taken, this being a most impudent lie.16  The name of this vessel was the San Marco Fortunato (ten men) and this glorious action I fought in the mouth of the Gulf of Lepanto,17 at six in the morning.

At half after ten, for the first time, landed in the Peloponessus, in a currant-ground to the left (the north) of the town, to shoot pistols with Lord Byron.18  Very much struck to see, at the landing-place, the Turks with pistols and daggers stuck in their belts – at half-past eleven, heard the signal from the brig for weighing – on board after leaving something for Mr Strané, English consul at Patrass, a good kind man, very ugly.  Sailed for Prevesa.19  On the right, the north, saw the town of Messolonghi,20 with a curious double shore at the foot of mountains, which rise one above the other as far as the eye can reach in Albania21 – which is the appearance of all the country visible to the north of the Gulf of Corinth.

Wednesday September 27th 1809

Wrote this being in the channel, with Ithaca, Little Cefalonia, to the left (west).  The appearance of this island is not so rough and rocky as that of the mainland, nor as Cefalonia – nor so mountainous.  We are close to it, and some trees can be seen on a brown heathy land.  On the right is a small, rude, low island, in the mouth of a narrow channel running up to Santa Maura22 – Leucadia,23 the rocks of Albania closing the view to the north and east, and those of Cefalonia to the West.  In Ithaca saw two towns, one in the hills scattered amongst trees, two windmills and a tower on the heights.  Tottaco a very small rocky island in the channel of Santa Maura.  The Echinades rocky islands to the east.

The jolly-boat cut out a boat from the shore of Ithaca, and in the evening a Turkish ship, having saluted one of the convoy with a gun, was brought to by the brig, and being found without papers and from Dulsinea, a French port,24 made a prize and the men brought on board.  Lord Byron and myself rummaged the ship,25 but found nothing but arms, and the cannon primed for another “salute”.

Observed lights in the hills – informed they were shepherds’ lights – vide Homer for this.  Read part of the book in the Odyssey26 given me by C.S.Matthews – close under Ithaca – no pigs there now27 – suppose from the suitors having eat[en] all the boars, which were παυροτεροι,28 as Homer says on that account.  Wrote this eleven at night.

Thursday September 28th 1809

Sailing in the channel between Ithaca and Santa Maura, passed Ithaca and saw Cefalonia stretching farther to the north – enclosing, as it were, Ithaca.  Doubled the Leucate Promontory29 precipices.  The hills covered with a green shrub or moss.  Saw a large cave on the south side, and another on the north, a bold shore.

At seven, anchored off Prevesa – at nine saw the moon rise over the hills, commanding the bay of Actium,30 comitante comite Byrone.31  This day Surgeon Swann informed me that Brookes, of the Menagerie in the Haymarket, has a brother, a surgeon who makes his monsters for him by ingrafting cocks’ spurs, &c., on owls’ heads.  Read book Ω in Matthews’ Odyssey.  The English Consul’s brother, a Greek, finely dressed, who could not read, came on board – Commeniuti32 – when we anchored, and laid a peculiar stress upon his provision of a collazione33 for us in the morning, before we should go to see the ruins of Nicopolis.  Dined at half-past nine.

Friday September 29th 1809

Rose early – seven in the morning.  Saw ourselves in the entrance of the Gulf of Arta.34  Appearance of the land low near Prevesa, with the ships anchored round the point – dreadful account of the master of the transport in the harbour with respect to the Turks and Greeks.35  Landed eleven o’clock in regimentals in a violent shower on shore.  Walked to the Consul’s – Signor Commeniuti’s house.36  Open rooms, three fitted up with a sofa à la Turque.  Dinner there – first tureen of rice soup, fowl boiled to rags, mutton seasoned high, fish broiled, fish roes, fruit, all brought in separately – decent wines of the country at dinner, and a bottle of good port after by way of a brune bruche.37

Walked after dinner – three o’clock through the town – to Ali Pacha’s palace38 – large rooms with naked walls and some sofas.  Shown it by the Albanese governor, a most merry man who laughed much with little Signor Bosari,39 and told him, as Mr Barrow says, avec un sourire impudent, that one of the rooms was for the “boys”.  Took coffee with him.  Governor, attended by several ill-dressed fellows as soldiers, not in any uniform, and with no more arms than every Turk wears – a brace of silver-mounted long pistols and an attaghan.  Governor begged as a favour that Captain Oliver would give up the prize till Ali Pacha came to Prevesa.  Within the walls of the palace, which is also a kind of fort, saw the masons cutting up antiques from Nicopolis for the building of some paltry house – but yet the Turks seem aware of the value of these curiosities.

The town very dirty, with narrow streets, low houses, wooden roofs [sketch] stretching out forming a wretched colonnade.  Saw in many houses the men playing at drafts – Greeks submissive, Turks not rude, but never pull off their caps to passengers, nor curious and staring.  In the same belt, with their pistols, the Turks carry a long silver mounted inkhorn to show, like Creichton with his books and sword, that they are tam Mercurio quam Marte.40  Saw from the Consul’s window a garden (all the houses have gardens, which gives a good effect to the appearance of the town), with a party of Greek mariners singing to the Greek fiddle and a kind of guitar like a hurdygurdy, and occasionally a man standing up to dance.  A young Turk, to frighten them, fired two loaded pistols over the wall in the air!!41  Prevesa – 3000 inhabitants – one half Turks.  Waiter at the Consul’s with a pistol in his belt … the Pro-Consul had his father and brother waiting behind his chair.  Slept in the consular house.

Saturday September 30th 1809

Rose at half-past nine – at eleven went on horseback – cattle42 small and bad.  Captain Oliver,43 Signor Bosari, ourselves, the tall brother of the consul like Jesus Christ and Don Quixote, and a guide, to the ruins of Nicopolis.44  These ruins cover, at intervals, the space of the plain from the Ionian Sea to the Gulf of Arta.  They are nothing magnificent, all that remains being broken walls with here and there the vestiges of a house.  What is shown by the guide is first, what they call the King’s House, the remains of a chamber where may be seen some painted wall, and a small piece of cornice – the gate of the wall which enclosed the royal part of the city, which is tolerably entire.  A theatre, with the semicircular seats remaining with the dungeons for the beasts below.  Farther, towards the Ionian Sea, a square building with several marble troughs, and lastly, on the heights towards the Gulf, the remains of an amphitheatre, semicircular, much larger than the before-mentioned.  The effect of the ruins is diminished considerably by their being all of brick.  The bricks are smaller than those in use with us, and the intervals of mortar as large as the bricks themselves, both being of a most durable texture.  The capitals of marble columns are also found there, but I saw but one on the ground and another in the wall of the least amphitheatre.  The space occupied by the city overgrown with thistles and used for sheep pens.  The bleating of the sheep, the tinkling of the bells, and the loud croaking of the frogs succeeding to the busy hum and populous city.  The view from several eminences commanding the sea, the Gulf, the theatre of action, the mountains of Albania to the south-east and north terminating the view.

We rode to the ruins through a grove of olive trees with low brushwood on either side on a path, resembling what is called in England a green lane,45 and returned by another way nearer the sea over a green plain, and through the courtyard of a Pacha’s palace of the meanest sort, passing, as we advanced nearer to Prevesa, through another grove of olive trees: the land everywhere neglected.

Dined at the Consul’s, who, I fear, is a rogue – dinner, not so varied and no bottle of port today.  Consul sick – went at four through a violent shower of rain on board the Spider, took coffee in, and leave of, that sweet brig – returned – and wrote this.  Bought for two zechins a Minerva46 coin to oblige the Consul – offered [on] our way from Nicopolis some ancient coins – one of Faustina47 …

P.S. the Privy at the Consul’s, being of a perpendicular construction, demands a place here – you go down the first flight of steps from the sitting rooms and turn there to the left hand up a wooden set of steps, and, coming into a small wooden chamber with a door, observe, no seat as usual, but a triangular (isosceles) orifice in the floor, with the base of the triangle to the wall – and over this about the common height of a necessary seat – a bench boarding reaching from one side of the room to the other with the segment of a circle – less than a semicircle – cut out just over the above-mentioned triangle, into which the discharge falls with no unpleasant noise.  This description is the more necessary as, in the first place, you may walk into this chamber without discovering the convenience, and secondly because if you be not previously instructed you may not be aware how to take advantage of the said bench but do as my friend Lord Byron did, i.e. sit down on the margin of the triangle itself with your knees to your nose, in a most distressing posture.

Having told this little anecdote of Lord Byron, I must in justice to him set down that he has enabled me to correct my journal48 by adding a goose, which I forgot to mention in the bill of fare of yesterday, and which came in between the mutton and the fish …

In Italy, Sicily, Malta, and this party, they have got a notion that “Nix” means “no” in English, most probably from the Dutch.49

Sunday October 1st 1809

At eleven a.m., left Prevesa in the Consul’s galliot,50 for which, by the way, we paid an unsatisfied man two dollars.  Down the Gulf of Arta, Ninus Ambraicus,51 to Salora, two hours.  A fine view – the land to the north in the foreground low, but mountains in [  ]; the remaining prospect mountainous.  Mr D’Anville52 mentions that this country to the north of the Gulf is but little known, and it appears difficult of access.  The Gulf has two bays, one to Vostitza to the south, and another to the shore of Nicopolis.

A little way up the Gulf, beyond Vostitza to the east, the sea is studded with small rocks, and a long island covered with trees where there is a monastery.  A thunderstorm rolling over the mountains to the north.  Landed just in time to avoid it at a small stone pier – and put the luggage under an open cover of a small house close to the beach.

On landing, delivered a letter given us by the Proconsul to the officer of the customs.  Here this man with a companion was very attentive, but told us there were no horses but four ready, so we must stay till next morning – hinting, at the same time, some apprehension about payment, which, however, I must say was soon dispelled.  He then told us that we were to sleep in the adjoining barrack, a large-looking house with a wall like a garden wall.  Here was [a] yard underneath a stone staircase to a large wooden apartment with one side open looking towards the sea, and two apartments at each end – all of wood, partly whitewashed – made only two years [ago] by Ali Pacha.  There was no furniture, but mats elevated about eight inches round the two small apartments to the north end, one of which we had to ourselves.

The soldiers here were ten and a captain, with no regular uniform but the red Albanian cap on the head, small and like the cup of an acorn.  They had but an unsavoury, ruffian-like show, but were civil and as well-mannered as any garrison.  They were not without the inkhorn, as they are proud in this country of being able to write and read.  Soon after we came in, the Captain, seated after the usual fashion, gave us coffee in very small cups, but very good.  Afterwards, Georgio53 provided us with some – very dear, two piastres, near twenty-four pence, and bread and wine.

At three o’clock afterwards walked out into the enclosure and had a fine view of Vostitza.  The fortress belonging to the Venetians formerly, with a verdant country near it.  Mountains in the background.  The last rays of the sun gilding the towers of the castle.  Seated again.  Took coffee and grapes, and smoked the long pipe, the companion of the Turks.  Gave the Captain a glass of moraschino from the canteen; offered another to one of his men, which he refused upon oath, as he said; but apparently because the Captain preferred taking it himself, which he did.54  This officer then took about eight small glasses of aniseed aqua vitæ of his own, being served by a pretty boy, one of the soldiers, about fifteen as he told us, who, we were told by Georgio, was the public good.  Indeed they remarked to us now and then he was καλος.55  His name was Yatchee (see his own writing)56 and the Captain’s, Elmas.  About six o’clock preparations made for the supper by the washing of hands, which they do eight times a day, and which, if they omit, so say the Greeks of them as well as of the Jews, they stink.57  Indeed, they scarcely ever change their linen.  They have a superstition about putting soap into your hand which they will not do, for fear of its washing away love between you, so they place it close to you, as I observed, indeed.58  Before the Captain at supper was placed a round board mounted on feet two inches high, and the men sat round a mat.  The supper was fish fried, and curded goat’s milk, and good bread.  They think drinking strong liquors before supper to be good for an appetite.  Washed hands and mouth after supper, then smoked – and ate grapes and talked, the Captain being a rational conversable man, till half-past nine, the only unpleasant circumstance being the frequent belches in fashion.59

Went to bed.  First found there was a well-contrived necessary, a triangular hole in the floor with an excavated stone seat a foot high to the base of the triangle.

Monday October 2nd 180960

Up at half-past five, but finding it poured, to bed again till nine.  Still no more horses – breakfast on fish and tea out of the canteen.  There are schools for teaching both modern and ancient Greek.61  Happened to come into the barrack, one of the schoolmasters of Arta, who read to me the first lines in Matthews’ Odyssey,62 pronouncing “υ” like “φ”, “Β” like “ν”, and making no long and short accents.  He told me he had sixty scholars.  Of Ali Pacha I heard that he had a scintum perineum from making like Phaedo the most of his youth,63 and that he had civilised and improved all the country, which he has conquered.  He has four per cent from the Christian,64 three from the Turkish merchants at his custom houses, and will suffer none of his merchants to take their families with them, for fear of them settling abroad.  He is much feared.

We attempted to set off with ten horses today at one, but raining hard, and having no good covering for trunks, stopped.  Dined at three on fish, bread and wine – saw after dinner one man rubbing another’s neck and arms, and pulling the joints – and told this was the Albanese cure for a cold in the limbs and pain in the head.  For pain in the veins the patient lies on his belly and a friend treads gently over and over his back – this is their panacea.  The Captain complained today that he was ill from two drops of tea we had given him last night which he called medicine – forgetting the aqua vitæ.  (Wrote the journal from October 1st with Yatchee’s pen.)  Observed that when the Captain went to the necessary he had a jug given him, by the boy, of water, which with some soap he used as do the Turks in general, with his left hand in absteying.65  They all shave every part of the body twice a week, and after urinating hold on for some time, for fear of any dropping on their shirt which they consider as a kind of pollution.  After some smoking in the evening, &c., five of the men sat round and saying several songs, Turkish and Albanese – one in particular said to be <sung><at> made on the siege of Prevesa by Ali Pacha, where Captain Elmas was.66  They sang loud and shrill, putting their flat hands to their cheeks to increase their voice.  No music, but very monotonous, the songsters dwelling like the English country musicians on the last note for some time.  To bed half-past nine.  Disturbed in the night by the dancers underneath.

Tuesday October 3rd 1809

Up at half-past five.  Fine morning, and after much trouble set off at about eight,67 with ten horses, four for us – four the luggage, and two Albanese soldiers for guard, for which there was no necessity.

For the first mile and a half over a stone causeway, across a marsh, saw wild swans – then over a green plain with plots of brushwood – rained terribly, from the mountains.  Horses very small and bad,68 never going out of a waggon pace – fearful for our luggage and beds – the last being wetted, so mind to be provided with coverings.69  The sun came out and the last part of the stage through vineyards and olive groves with pomegranate trees – figs, &c.  Enclosed gardens, the lane looking like the entrance of an English village of the prettiest sort.  Went over a bridge over the river of Arta, of good size.

Approach the town – see a curious old building to the right, [sketch] circular, with three stories of pillars – a Greek church.  A little farther on was a handsome-looking new house belonging to the Vizier.70  Entering the town, went to the custom house, to the officer of which we had a letter – saw the court filled with bales of coarse cloth, leather &c. for Ioannina – the customs officer, an Albanian Turk, very polite and kind and communicative, told us that this house was fitted up by a Venetian – we saw some pictures71 – and had been the residence of the French Consul, that he would get us a house.  He maintained that the town had about a thousand houses, that the people were poor and lazy, traded little, each having a small spot of ground which he half-cultivated!!!

After being settled in a decent house, to which he had with difficulty got us introduced, and having dined on some provision, a goose and fish brought from Salora, I walked out, and found what struck me a better-most sort of town, the streets partly paved and sufficiently wide, and not having any unpleasant smell.  Went up to a castle, still fortified, badly built on the declivity of the hill, on which the old city formerly stood, marbles having been found on the sides of the hill.  Lost my way, and whilst explaining my case to a most polite man with a guard behind me, saw Fletcher, who had somehow not forgot his way.  Took another walk into the bazaar with Georgio, and found everything looking ten times better than Prevesa.  At Georgio’s request, two workers in silver in their open shops, showed me two coins, which I did not buy, the men asking a dollar for one, and the other being without any [  ] of any kind.

Came home, and found our custom-house friend, who took a dish of tea and conversed, telling me, as he had before, that the Turkish mosque had been built from the marbles of the Greek church.  He informed us that the postmaster72 wished to be paid beforehand for his horses, a circumstance that astonished us, because many travellers, Albanese merchants, &c., galloped off without payment.73  There is a party of Greek singers, a fiddler belonging to Ali Pacha and a tambouriner, recitating in the next room – rather less noisy than last night.

Wednesday October 4th 1809

Up at six.  Set out, after breakfast on fish, at half-past eight, for Ioannina.  Road over the bridge again, and turning to the right met long strings of horses loaded with wine in goat-skins.  Observed a fine plane tree,74 and a cedar on the left not far from town, the river on the right and gardens to the left.  Pass for some time a plain with Indian corn growing – and then an extensive marsh to the left, and a plain stretching towards the Gulf – rocky hills to the right.

Had two Albanese guards with us, but coming to a military post of Ali Pacha’s – a small hut to the right on a road on an eminence – took four other soldiers on foot with us – a town to the left.  Proceeding, the path led into the mountains which begun to enclose us.  The soldiers went with us for about two hours, till we came near a village of houses scattered on a hill to the right, and a lodge-house belonging to the Pacha.  Beginning to ascend the mountains, stopped to refresh at twelve.  Turning round, had a fine view, a valley enclosed by steep hills, and the sea enclosing the prospect – continued the march over the hills.  Came to a part of the road famous for robberies, whence there is a pass over the mountains for Zeitoun to the north.

Heard a suspicious gun fired in a most suspicious place – turned out to be a shepherd sporting – the pastoral life a little altered!!!.75  The sheep- and goat-herders, being tremendous-looking fellows, armed with long guns knives and pistols.76  Saw another country lodge on the right of the Pacha’s, on the hills with a few trees round it, and a small church.  Came to a chasm in the road formed by a torrent – passed another village of two or three houses, and a church, i.e. a small house with one door and one window, used about twice a year.

Came to an osteria, half way between Arta and Ioannina, at half-past three.  Here the Vizier’s people exact a toll from Greek passengers of four paras per man.  The osteria consisted of an arched gateway, a barrack with one room, and a miserable wine house – to this place the road had been very romantic and rugged and mountainous.  Thence began to descend into a plain, and again saw some signs of partial cultivation – Indian wheat – and single houses, scattered at intervals of a mile, with now and then a solitary labourer in the field, beating the [  ] trees.  Got off my horse at the osteria, and walked for two hours – met two or three parties, generally armed men, soldiers.  Evening with a drizzling rain up hills – very dark.  Got on horseback, rode for some time, and saw a blazing fire, which was supposed to be the osteria we sought for.77  Proceeded, and assailed by shepherd’s dogs.  Pitchy dark for half an hour, and at last turned into the gate of the osteria, after encountering a Turkish lady78 in the stable with her face veiled, who also alarmed Fletcher by calling him “Tommy”.

Got into the chamber of the “inn”,79 preparing to make it our own.  Four Albanian soldiers came in, and took possession of mats and a corner of the room for themselves and a priest.  No fire, on account of combustible matter below,80 so spread our three beds on the right hand of the fireplace, whilst Georgio prepared eggs, which were underboiled.

Our chums turned out to be a mission with letters to General Bessières81 in Corfu, who, it seems had been slow in paying the Pacha for provisions sent to his troops.  One Albanian savage, and being informed by a young French<man> subject, who had joined party with us, that he would be taken by the English cruisers off Corfu, said that Captain Leake and these two gentlemen were securities for his safety.82  The priest quiet, and took a dish of our tea – went to bed, for the first time, in a room where there were ten people to sleep, each with pistols under his pillow, and yet no fear of intrusion from without.83

Before daybreak the savage Turk rose, walked out for five minutes, returned with a jug of water and began spitting most violently, concluding by whirling round as if to air his posteriors84 and throwing a mouthful of water from him – lay down again as before in his clothes.

Thursday October 5th 180985

The Corfu mission departed, and we got out at seven.  Took tea, and set out in a violent shower, nine o’clock.  Country a green plain, with green hills – many flocks of sheep and goats, two towns to the left, for one of which our little Corfu man left our party.  Country drenched in rain – came in view of a high mountain86 before us, and after approaching it for about three hours, and mounting a rising for a mile or so, came in view of Ioannina and its lake, with buildings stretching into the lake.

Entered the city, monuments to the left – and under a tree, hanging to a twig – an arm torn from the shoulder (this belonged to a priest executed for rebellion about five days).87  No pleasant impression made by this – Lord Byron and myself a little sick.88

Rode some time through the streets – passed a fine-looking house, painted panels – came to Captain Leake’s.  Told he was ill – went to a house provided for us – the padrone Signor Niccolo, a Greek,89 most kind and attentive.  Good lodging – a sitting-room, a bedroom, and a servants’ room.  After dressing all in red, His Highness the Pacha’s Secretary90 and the Primate ushered in.  The minister spoke French, and overwhelmed me with the news that His Highness had been aware of our intention to visit Ioannina,91 that he had ordered everything to be prepared for our reception, that he was sorry to be obliged to leave his city to finish a little war, but begged that we would follow him, and that he had ordered an escort to conduct us to his camp.  The Primate spoke never a word, but bowed very gracefully.  Lord Byron introduced to them, he, the Secretary, repeated his communication, and left us, as he said, to give orders for the necessary preparations.

After dinner, again astonished to find the Pacha had left orders that we should be furnished with everything for our table, and on no account allowed to pay – as also that we had been expected four days, and that Captain Leake had deferred leaving Ioannina on purpose to receive us!!!92 Both the minister and Signor Niccolo joined in calling the country fine, but the men beasts.  The Secretary is a Greek – as, I understand, any one might tell by his ability to speak French and Italian, which the Turks cannot.  The Albanese is a mixture of Greek, Italian and a country language.

Another triangular necessary.

The road for Arta to Ioannina is throughout tolerable for horses.  The paved spots are the worst, especially as the shoe of the horse is a flat piece of iron covering the bottom of the hoof, with a small hole in the middle, but over great part of the ground a horse may go at a good pace.  It has been made by Ali Pacha only about eight years.

Friday October 6th 1809

Up nine.  Tried on Albanese dresses as fine as pheasants.93  Stayed indoors on account of rain.  Captain Leake called – as did His Highness’s Secretary – the Captain ill of a cold, which disease seems to be communicated to his manner,94 that a little dissipated our dreams of greatness so much that it is impossible to tell whether His Highness’s Secretary and Signor Niccolo have not been humming us.

Dined at home.  Many dishes of bouille,95 and a certain Turkish pasty in a platter, covering the table, called       ,96 very good indeed, of which I understand there is a variety.  In the evening a tailor called with a specimen of big breeches for Lord Byron, and after taking his orders as to said breeches, took coffee with us, but did not sit on the sofas but on the ground.  The Secretary called to tell us that Zante was taken by the English97 – gave him and Signor Niccolo a glass of Morascino for luck.  Conversation and pipes with Signor Niccolo all the evening.

This day, seeing two common-looking fellows standing in our sitting room, enquired of Georgio who they were.  He answered that he had intended not to introduce them, as they had been a little irregular in their visit, but as I wanted to know he must inform me that they were two of His Highness’s people, belonging to the butteries, I believe, who had come to congratulate us with a bunch of grapes, and waited for a present, which was given them, of two piastres.  It seems that had His Highness been here we should have been visited by one servant in every department for the same purpose, which is the custom here when provisions are furnished for nothing, by His Highness’s orders, to any stranger.  I observed that everyone slips off slippers from his boots before he mounts the steps of the room to take his seat.  Here the younger brother waits upon the elder, as does the father on the son when the latter is the rich[er] man of the two.  In Ioannina there are several physicians, and certain surgeons, who, as Signor Niccolo said, never cut but cure.98  The unmarried women are never seen, the bridegroom never sees his future wife till he puts on the ring – there are consequently no amours except with married women – and now and then a little contrabande, as the signor called it.  This is some excuse for pæderasty, which is practised underhandly by the Greeks, but openly carried on by the Turks.  Captain Leake told us that Pukeville99 had never been in Albania when he wrote his book.100

Saturday October 7th 1809

Up at eleven.  Went after breakfast to visit Captain Leake, still cold and raw, then to Mochtar Pacha’s palace, the eldest son of Ali.101  Saw his son, a boy ten years old,102 with beautiful eyes, but a mouth like the late Lord Trafalgar’s.103  With an inexpressible unembarrassed air he desired us, with a gentle motion of his hand, to sit down.  His preceptor, with a long beard, was sitting at the other end of the sofa.  After a dish of coffee, rose to see the apartments of the palace – surprised to see one of the ill-dressed, ill-looking ruffians who attended the young Bey go up to him when he had left his room, and kiss him most tenderly.  Altogether, indeed, there appeared a strange mixture of familiarity and respect in the conduct of these attendants.  The Bey was peculiarly intimate with Signor Niccolo: he had something hanging to his neck, which when I attempted to touch he was much moved, saying “No, no”.  This was a charm,104 so that he has not a preceptor who teaches him nothing.

The palace has one long, well-floored gallery, and several well-fitted-up but not too gaudy rooms, in two of which I observed English carpets.  The rooms for the winter were very comfortable – on the upper panels of the gallery was painted, in the tea-board style, a representation of Constantinople.105  Here the shower of the rooms had a zechin for his trouble, and Georgio was crowded with fellows asking for presents.  However, he only gave two piastres to the black boy who brought in the coffee.

Dined at home.  The same Turkish large dish, but made with a herb like spinach instead of fowls, and a capital dish – also Turkish – being a meat-ball rolled up in cabbage leaves (ypraik).106

At night, eleven o’clock, saw a Greek wedding.  The lady was of Ali’s seraglio, and had been portioned out by him to one of the servants of his palace.  First the man went with a large party with fiddles and lanterns to fetch her from the seraglio – when he had her, the procession winded to his own house.  He went first with a crowd of men with lights and music, then came the bride some way behind – before her marched five or six young girls, with their hair combed down, and two or three children in arms, and then a woman carrying a little red trunk on her head, containing the dowry in jewels.  The bride herself, who was exactly like an image of the Virgin, having no motion except a slow waddle from side to side.  She came with a man with pistols having hold of one hand, and a priest of the other.  Her face was so painted that it looked like a mask – she was not pretty.  Behind was a crowd of women, lights and music.  A mussulman may not have more than seven wives.107  If a slave in the harem of a great man becomes big, she is made one of his wives if he have not seven before.

Sunday October 8th 1809108

Up at eleven.  After breakfast, took a ride on four of the Vizier’s horses – very good, but bad pacers.  Rode into the plain – this part of the land belonging to several small proprietors, and to a convent situated on the side of the hill.  Good view of the lake, and of Mount Pindus, rising on the north side of this hill.  Said Captain Leake, “We have the best view in Greece”.109

Returned through the fair, which is held once a year – cattle of all kinds, and German cloth brought from Leipsig:110 previous to, and during this fair, all the shops in turn are shut by the Vizier.  Called on the Procurator of the City, a fat, short man, good-humoured apparently.  Coffee and pipes with the same, which cost us a dollar and a half.  Dined with Captain Leake – dinner bad, as also wine, which last, he says, is adulterated with water to increase its quantity, and pine juice to increase its strength, besides a little raisin111 and lime.

Polybius mentions that the Romans took seventy-two cities in Epirus – where are those cities? Most probably the Romans took them away with them.112  At Arta is the wall of Ambracia.  Ioannina is not in Albania, but a conquest of the Albanians.  Captain Leake has commissioned people to give double this weight for coins in their respective metals, and can get but few.

At night, as the Ramadan commenced, pistols and guns, all loaded with balls, were discharged in every part of the city.  Two balls whizzed close by me in the necessary.

Monday October 9th 1809113

Up ten.  After breakfast, went out on the lake fowling.  No good shooting.  Mr Poukeville talks of the Acheronian lake, Mount Tomarus, the Elysian fields, and le petit Pinde.  We were in the midst of these, but saw nothing of them except perhaps le petit Pinde.  Dined with Captain Leake at five.  He has made a vocabulary copious, and a grammar of the Albanese language.114  Came home, and at eleven o’clock went to a bath – full of Turks, this being Ramadan, and frightened away by a crooked old fellow, one of the robbers, so that we did not go into the inner room, where the washing takes place, and where the operation is performed, as Signor Niccolo said, by belli giovanni – the hot water is poured upon you …

Tuesday October 10th 1809

Tremendous explosion of thunder over our heads at nine o’clock.  Yesterday saw an Albanian soldier forcing away an old woman who was spinning under the eaves of the Secretary’s door.  On enquiry, I heard she was compelled to work gratis somewhere else for His Highness.  On Sunday, hearing the sound of a fiddle as we were riding, I turned round, and saw on a green, nine or ten Albanians, with their hands locked together behind their backs, dancing to two musicians, one of who had the fiddle whilst the other beat a tambourine.  The dance was slow (a hop) and I saw no other figure than the two ends of this line of dancers, now approaching to, now retreating from each other, and moving a little from one part of the green to another – the musicians walking about with the dancers and close to them.  Passed the day at home on account of the rain.

Wednesday October 11th 1809

Got up ten.  At one, set off for the Vizier with the Secretary,115 his servant, a priest,116 an Albanian,117 and ourselves.  Proceeded to the west end of the lake.  Passed a ditch made by Ali Pacha about twenty years [ago], which surrounds the town.  To the right, about an hour’s ride, a hill, with remains of an ancient fortification called Kathi vecchi,118 to the left, tents pitched to gather in the vines.  Several villages on every side.  A house of the Vizier’s to the left, farther on.  Three hours, came to a large tract of marshy flat land, bridges building by the river – “Imperial works and worthy kings”.119  Overflown in winter, but now covered with maize.  On the summit of a hill opposite the marsh, a smart house like an osteria – but a palace of a great man to whose daughter young Hussein Bey is to be married.  A half hour more, passed a small osteria to the right, began to get into a pass through some low hills, the Albanian, the Secretary and myself, the postillion having been sent to prepare things at the village.  The whole of the rest of the party being some way behind, out of sight.  An hour more, proceeding through a slippery plain after the pass between the hills.

Just as the rain came on, which had been announced by the lightning over the mountains to the north, and we reached Zitza, the destined village – scrambling through the narrow lanes with high walls of each side, came to a very small cottage with no chimney – this would not do, so passed on to another cottage with three or four small apartments – the one destined for us pretty well, with a quantity of maize heaped up in one corner.  The Secretary and myself taking possession of the two corners, between both was the fire.  The soldiers went to slay and dress fowls for all the party, whilst we, like the wives in Homer, sat expecting the coming of those who were detained far away!! The Primate, or first man of the village, who gives account to the Vizier of the revenues of the place (as is the case in every collection of houses) came in to transact business with the Secretary, who, it seems, is appointed by His Highness Inspector of Villages.  He looked like an English waggoner, but was well-mannered, as also was120 one of the Papas, or priests of the village, of that class who are permitted to marry.  The priest was dirty and miserably dressed, and performed every menial office for us while we ate, but he was most kind, and had a benevolent expression of countenance.  I never saw a Welsh curate, but cannot suppose any one so poor as this man.  He came, as the Secretary informed me, to complain that the Primate had rated the village too high – indeed, though it has but a hundred houses, it pays 13,000 piastres to the Vizier, the church paying nothing.121

All the evening expected Lord Byron and the baggage – at ten lay down – dogs howling and barking at intervals – the storm raging all the time most furiously.  Waked from a doze at half-past eleven by the shouting of men and clamour of the dogs.  The Secretary jumped up after some time – a man, panting and pale, brought in – who proved to be the Secretary’s valet.  He began his story with the most terrified gestures, frequently saying “εκπεδε – εκπεδε!”122 which I applied to some body having tumbled – broken his neck – and asking the Secretary, was told by him that, the baggage horses having fallen, the horses and men had gone to a village, and sent this man for fresh horses to us.

Sent out lights, men and ten horses – and about half-past two, after lying down between some coarse woollens in vain, heard that the whole party were entering the town – and also, what the Secretary had concealed from me, that they had been lost in the plains all night from the time the storm commenced.

At three Lord Byron123 and co came in, but in a better condition than could be expected, both themselves and the baggage, which was owing to two coarse capots of goatshair – and some bisacu124 composed of woved canvas within their goatshair stuff, and then a leather covering, which enclosed beds and trunks.  The party had been for nine hours in total ignorance of their position, notwithstanding the three guides belonging to the horses, a priest and the Secretary’s valet, who, I was informed, knew every step of the way.  They were only an hour’s march from us, but on a sudden, when the storm commenced, got unawares to the side of some torrent, whose roaring served to fill up the short pauses of the storm – there were they for seven hours, two of the horses having fallen, and the whole situation becoming so serious, that Lord Byron laughed, Fletcher was silent,125 and Georgio stamped, swore, cried, and fired off his pistols, which manoeuvre being performed without due notice, alarmed the valet into fears of his life from robbers.

The whole of this adventure was described to me by the said Georgio in the most tragical tone.  Lay down all in the room – and got up …

Thursday October 12th 1809126

… eleven o’clock, after breakfast, strolled out – the village of Zitza most romantically placed,127 as are generally all, like the goats of Virgil,128 hanging upon the rock.  Proceeding to the high ground of the village, came to a pool – woman washing clothes in the Scotch fashion – Vizier’s palace to the left – a tolerable building under a few beech trees – a very small church.

Went up to a monastery on a small hill to the right, crowned with fine oak trees.  After knocking some time at the only door of the building plated with iron, for admittance, let in, with some hesitation, shown the small church panels covered with red pictures, particularly of Elijah.  Chapel in form of two small, round, cupolated rooms.  In a comfortable room, belonging to the Prior, sat down, took some excellent white wine, pressed by the hand we were told, some walnuts, and some coffee.  The prior drank with us.  From the specimen I have seen, every preference is to be given to the Greek over the Roman church!!!

This monastery of Zitza perhaps is the most romantic spot in the world.  From the green little hill on which it stands, Captain Leake has well chosen [it] for the place from which to take a picture.  To the north immediately opposite is a mountain, the sides clothed with woods and with vineyards <riding up> with here and there a red chasm in the rock, that gives a pleasant and varied effect to its appearance.  To the north-east, a long ridge of the hills of Sagori – to the north-west, with a beautiful plain in the foreground closing the landscape.  The mountains of Chimara to the west, those of Jalli – and the south prospect also shut in by hills.  Through the plain to the north-east are seen the windings of the river Calamas (Acheron) and the nearer part of the landscape on every side is enriched by the green vineyards.  The frequent villages and the clumps of trees with which they are sheltered and adorned – oh fine.  The houses of the village are all built with stone, almost every cottage having a court or with a high wall.  They are well contrived – much better than the Scotch.

This journal, from Wednesday, written in the little window of the cottage of Zitza in which we have passed this last eventful night.  (Fletcher just complains that my benevolent-faced clergyman has been teaching him Greek, and kissing him).  In the monastery are four brothers [sketch] (this is the window).  Went to bed at ten.  Could not get to sleep all night for fleas and the barking of dogs.

Friday October 13th 1809

Up half-past seven.  At nine, left Zitza, proceeded to the north.  Went north-west by north.  First through vineyards on little hills, yielding fine grapes, then up and down a hill covered with brushwood, where we met a herd of jackasses and women laden with sticks, and branches.  Two hours, got into a valley with several tufts of trees, and keeping more northwards saw a cascade, picturesque with trees, on the left bank – and a mill at the top.  This fall of the Calamas (Acheron) by the side of which stream, about as big as the Avon at Bath, we went for a short way.  Passed an osteria to the right, then over a bridge of the Calamas.  The vale beginning to be studded with little hills, and the mountains to the left more high.  Saw to the left, situated amongst trees on the side of a chasm in the hill, a pretty-looking house of the Vizier (a violent thunder-storm) and the country covered with wood and beautiful on all sides, interspersed with vineyards and spots of maize ground.  Arrived at a village of the Vizier’s called Mosuree,129 where he130 has a palace (barrack).

At one o’clock took up lodging, as we could not proceed, on account of the torrents rolling down the hills, in a poor priest’s house, loose-walled and much worse than Zitza.  The village has but a few houses placed at intervals.  Took a walk till five o’clock.  A lovely spot: hills to the top, covered with goats and sheep.  To the south a very high mountain, appearing to the top like an artificial fortification, called Papinghi.131  The mountains seem to run, not as given in the maps, from north to south, but from west to east – the Calamas in the same direction – east to west – through this lovely valley.

This village, being the property of the Vizier, pays one half of everything to him, besides giving labour, &c.  All Albania pays a tenth to the government [at] Constantinople, of which Ali takes ([says the] Secretary) a quarter – but besides, several villages pay the Vizier for his protection, sending him also extra sums at his command.  Add that any soldier or person belonging to the Vizier can at any time quarter himself upon a villager for nothing: and may do anything but rob him of his money or abuse his wife.  The poor folk at Zitza were astonished at our making them a present in the morning.  The peasants appear to work hard, very hard, to be ill-clothed and badly fed, eating meat only on holy days (one a week) living otherwise on cheese – but as is always, to be sure, the case, some appear miserable, some comfortable – but all complain.

The Pacha suffers no-one to get rich – the monasteries pay no fixed tax, but he sends demands for their money not infrequently.  Priests cannot marry, but a married man may become a priest – when Ali comes to one of his country seats he eats up half the village.  Sometimes he sends for provisions to a distance, and if he happens to have moved before they come, the wretches must follow him at their own expense.  In short, the people ought to be miserable every way – yet Ali builds bridges and palaces; cleans the country of robbers, improves the police of his towns, and extends his power on every side, acting the part of the great man in the usual acceptation of the term.  Albania will be forever the better for his administration, and should the children of the present slaves become free, they will remember his name with gratitude and forget the injuries of their fathers.132  (The Marquis of Pombal133 was at the same time the tyrant and the benefactor of the Portuguese.)  Every other Pacha would have been as despotic, but not one perhaps, if as powerful, so willing as Ali to improve his dominions.

Recollect also that Ali has had many obstacles to encounter.  Even now, his armed Albanian subjects are scarcely subjects, and although amounting to 200,000, cannot be collected by him in larger bodies than six, or seven thousand at a time.  Mochtar has but six with him at the General Vizier’s Army.

Saw this shaped plough today without [sketch] any iron.  The stirrup of the Turk Albanian serves also for a spur, being like the share of a fine shovel.  The handle end forwards, so, with the inner sharp side of the shovel-stirrup, the rider rips, not pricks, the skin.  Put up at Mosuree for the night, beds yet again.  Post horses account tomorrow.

Saturday October 14th 1809

Post horses, five, are furnished for us for nothing, the town of Ioannina paying this establishment; that is, we are only to give the postillion a regalo.  The luggage horses belong to villanis, who are obliged to furnish horses for the Vizier’s service, but to these also we give a regalo.

Flea-hunting all last night, and discovered we, i.e., Fletcher and myself, were lousy.134

Set off at one for Delvinachi135 – road northwards through oak woods – on the right Tarovina, a poor fortress belonging to the Vizier within a small lake.  Road more beautiful, winding through woods.  Chain of mountains running north-west to south-east.  Came on a sudden to the summit of a hill, where the road turned to the right – Delvinachi in sight.  Tremendous precipices beneath grand prospect to the left of a thousand woody hills, closed by cloud-capt mountains,136 and winding down a good narrow road and up, saw the town in the bottom.  Arrived at four.  Next town, about three hundred houses.  Vizier’s house, one room well-furnished.  All the good houses everywhere that we have seen apparently quite new.

Walked out up a lane running up the hill eastward, turned round, and found a fine picturesque scene, the sun setting over the opposite hills.  The herds of goats a principal feature in a Grecian landscape.  They, as well as other beasts, admitted to the vineyards when the grapes cut.  Vite caper morsæ Bacchi mactandus (venit Hesperus ite capella).137  The whole road today surpassing anything.  This town is the last in Greece, (Epirus); tomorrow enter Albania, going again north-west.  (Sec[ondo] Secretary), Ali is properly only Pacha of Ioannina and Tricala.  Ibrahim, in whose territory lies Tepellene, Ali’s native place and patrimony, being rightful Pacha of Albania.  There are about twenty-four free towns in Ali’s dominions which only pay a piastre for each family, and are obliged to furnish one soldier for every two families.  All the rest pay tenths (we heard the crier tonight proclaim, tomorrow to be the day settled for the usual tenth payment.)  Ali has four hundred villages near138 his own property, and from these, and what he has of the tenths, he gets about 6,000,000 piastres, not reckoning his extortions for protections, &c.

Our soldier kicked the women of the house, a neat one, where we are lodged.139  Many of the inhabitants of this and other villages are traders, fetching goods from Constantinople and Ioannina on horseback.  The Albanian Grecians dress chiefly of a white coarse woollen.  ’Tis not easy to distinguish the men of authority by their dress.  (Erasmus says that “cram like an Englishman” was a phrase in his time.140  (Lord Byron E[nglishman]), doppo collazione, said Signor “Cornilto Collovo”141 – 4 £61½ of sugar ten piastres.142

Sunday October 15th 1809

Up seven.  Set out at nine for Libochavo.  Road again north-west, up a zig-zag road or path.  Obliged to dismount to get into the vale, woody country.  In about three hours, came suddenly in sight of a plain, flat, and broad with hills on the opposite side, north and south.  Plain well-cultivated, with English-looking divisions and river running through the hills.   Stopped at one at         ,143 whence is a <tobacco> snuff manufactory144 in an osteria where [  ] [  ] specimens of snuff handed about and tried by the Secretary (first time saw tobacco plant).  Rode, still on the side of the hill.  Passed two ancient fortresses, one on the summit to the right, which I did not see, another on a little hill to the left, and a fountain which a man of the country with us told me had the peculiarity of never being able to cook anything.  The other side of the river called the country of Threenopolis145 or Argyrocastro.  The barren hills covered many towns in a line.

The capital seen at a distance in the same line, Argyrocastro, a large city.  Some say as big as Ioannina – this district properly belongs to Ibrahim Pacha, but Ali is soon to seize it.146  Could discern that we had got into another country – the Albanian dress being prevalent.  Arrived half-past four at Libochavo – the people in the suburb did not know whether Ali was in town or not.147  Came to the house of a relation of one of Ali’s wives, where the friends of the Vizier, strangers, are admitted.  Libochavo has for governor Adempii, the third son of Ali’s sister <ten old.>  The room in which we were placed fitted up pretty well as to cushions, but with no plaister on one side of it.  Partook of a Turkish repast – no oil.  Informed by our host that the miraculous spring, having some vitrous particles in it, had been known to give ruptures to those who used it.

Mem: to get at Ioannina Grecian music, and Meliteo’s geography148 – also to look into a French dictionary for an account of this country.

Country more barren today – eight to sleep in our chamber.

Monday October 16th 1809

Up ten.  Kept in all day, except a ride to palace.  Building for Adempii.  Saw a house deserted on account of being haunted by Gins.  To bed eleven.  Disturbed for an hour by drum beating at two to call the Turks to the Ramadan dinner.  Hoc eadem religio.149

Tuesday October 17th 1809

Up eleven.  Set off at two into the plain to the north.  Crossed the river – scene thereat, found party with a man taking a young boy and girl, brother and sister of an assassin, to Tepellene150 for the Vizier’s service, who always appropriates the families of rogues.  Mounted the hill to the right, came in at seven over difficult mountain paths to Cesarades, not the village to which we intended to go.  Neat room, and well received by an Albanian friend of the Secretary’s.  Cesarades is just opposite Argyrocastro.

Wednesday October 18th 1809

Up very early, but not off till ten – zig-zag path up and down the sides of the mountains, the villagers chiefly women, making the way for us with pickaxes.  We passed two pleasant villages, Toxarodes, &c. a fountain, a village green, belonging to each and by reason of the floods got but a few miles by half-past three to Ereeneed.  A large garden with pomegranates, tobacco, canes, figs and grapes.  Not well lodged, but saw in our house an old couple, the man said to be a hundred, the woman 110 years old – Greece famous for longevity.  Informed there was an older man in the village.  Holes through the walls of the cottages for muskets.  Twenty years ago, such a village was at war with its neighbour.  Literal Greek spoken at some villages bordering on Tricala, and some Greek at Otranto – a very little boy had a zechin under his foot which had dropped from Lord Byron’s hand intended as a present to the old man.

Thursday October 19th 1809151

Off at ten, down into the plain again – went north up the valley by the side of the river, which grows larger and the vale more narrow, the scene more picturesque.  Observed a carriage of the Vizier, with a lady, going to Tepellene.  Pass a bridge to the left side of the river.  See the banks of the river, deep – a pretty village – Corvo – with a mosque on the other side.  River as broad as the Thames at Westminster.  Close to Tepellene another stream, coming down a narrow valley from the north-east.  Tepellene the native place of the Vizier – ill-looking and small.

Arrived at five, given a good apartment in the palace.  The first appearance of which romantic, the court crowded with men of arms, and here and there a caparisoned horse leading about.152

Introduced to a secretary153 who spoke German, Latin, French, Italian, Greek, Turkish – bad dinner.  Drank out Lord Jocelyn’s Moroscina,154 the long gallery looking like a top English inn – Fletcher observed, the one at Exeter.

Zante, Cefalonia, Ithaca, certainly taken.155

A set of bogs156 one very good in the Turk fashion.  Met Doctor Frank157 today, in yellow shoes.  The roads most dreadful, and yet passed by a carriage which I observed the coachman driving four-in-hand à l’anglais with an Albanian footman.158  Instruments of husbandry much the same as with us.

Lord Byron gave me a lecture about not caring enough for the English nobility. . . . . . . .159

Friday October 20th 1809

Up late.  Waited on the Vizier with Dragoman Georgio Fousmioti, and the Secretary.  Vizier affable, good-humoured,160 about my own height,161 fat, a white beard, high turban, many folds, attagan162 studded with diamonds, in a room with a fountain in the middle.  Showed us a mountain howitzer, and, looking through his glass, observed that on the other side of the river he saw the Prime Minister of his enemy Ibrahim,163 who had come over to his part.  He asked Lord Byron, whom I thought he looked a little leeringly at, how he could have had the heart to leave his mother.164  He said he considered us as his children.  He sent us fruit after dinner, and desired moreover that we might have everything we wished.165

Conversed with Doctors … & Frank, an Alsatian.  The last told me that the Pasha had not a wound in his body, that Tepellene is in Chaonia,166 that the Zapoyges167 are to the west, near Tepellene, that Lord Elgin had discovered a remain at Mycene,168 that it is not uncommon to hear a man in Albania say, “Ten years ago when I was a robber”, that robbery is a profession, and in some instances winked at by the Vizier, that Albania comprises in its various little districts and villages every form of government.  Argyrocastro has no governor – ask the question, they cannot tell – some parts are savage, some more polished – the Gegotes in rei169 most brutal at Constantinople.  They know nothing, or ought to know nothing, of the little war with Ibrahim.  Doctor … talks Latin, and told us that pederasty, which here was openly practised,170 was to be found more or less in any large body of men living without females, who, said he with the utmost coolness, aut pueri aut mastrupratione utuntur.171  The Doctor himself looked a little rogueish, being fat and tall – after dinner Doctor Frank came in, and talk[ed] French politics.

To bed early – Fletcher has been lousing all day with great success especially in my lord’s shirt.172

Saturday October 21st 1809

Up ten.  Sent a gun of Manton’s,173 single barrel, and a telescope of Berge’s,174 with a promise of another gun.  Also Lord Byron’s rifle175 of Manton’s.  He much pleased, and gave an order for eighty piastres to Fletcher, who attended with Georgio and the Secretary.  The Secretary disgusted because the Vizier did not give him an order for a cloth cloak!!

A fine gallery in this place, full of lounging Albanians whose number increases daily – now two and three hundred.  Called on the Vizier – found two men giving an account of the campaign against Ibrahim.  It seems they stated that ordnance was wanting – directly, long gun like a duck gun brought in to be examined and sent out to take Ibrahim – war in miniature!! The Vizier observed Lord Byron’s little ears, 176 by which he observed to Georgio that he could discover him to be of an ancient house.177  Dined in apartments – bed early – fine day.

Sunday October 22nd 1809

After breakfast rode with Dr Tanilario178 and Byron to see an ancient ruin about an hour off, on the Vizier’s horses and Turkish saddles.  Considered the Turkish saddles are not so good as ours – dined.  Went to the Vizier,179 took leave, and asked leave to take Vasilly about with us, and another domestic Albanian.180  Vasilly called in and spoken to very kindly by His Highness, who knows how to do these things well.181

Told it was time to go, having to get up early next morning!!  The regular182 at this court will amount to thirty-three zechins, at least.  Every man brings you a small specimen of the carica, or the things furnished at [the] office which he holds – and expects a present.

[The next page is torn out;184 the stub reads:] There is a fool with a high round / a Zechin selon

[The diary continues:] Ali Pacha entertains a fellow with a high round fur cap, whose carica it is to play the fool and gambol before him185 – to this man we gave, selon l’usage, a zechin.

Monday October 23rd 1809

Set out at ten from Tepellene,186 without Mr Speridion Collovo, with the old five post-horses and five more of the Tepellene post, for the luggage, [of] which Signor Collovo said, vanno assolutemente correndo,187 that is, they trotted occasionally five miles an hour.

Beautiful day.  Arrived at four at Libochavo, a village on the side of the mountains – the next [day,] to Ereneed, where we slept going to Tepellene.  Difficulty of getting in – stones flung at the women of one house, and the door of another broken open.188  Lodged well at last.  Lord Byron and myself strolled to the village green, very pretty, before dinner.  Went to bed ten.

Tuesday October 24th 1809

Up at seven, off at nine.  Descended into the plain, the rains having subsided – crossed the river, and leaving Libochavo on the left, proceeded through the plain not as before, on the side of the hill – met droves of loaded horses, asses, mules, with various cargoes for the Vizier, one with cannon-shot.  Met young Adempii Bey, with two greyhounds, one a ragged puppy.  Got into the same road by which we came, and arrived at our favourite village, Delvinachi, at sunset, and took up our lodging with the same lady as before – the grapes all gone – bed at ten – most beautiful day – cold at night and morning.

Wednesday October 25th 1809

Off at ten.  Returned by the old road to Zitza by half-past four o’clock.  Ploughing in this season.  Use only one hand to the plough, with a stick in the other, like the picture in Dryden’s Virgil,189 The furrow not an inch deep.

Took up lodging at the monastery, where well lodged – everything neat.  At Zitza three hundred houses and eight churches – another fine day – bed ten.

Thursday October 26th 1809

Up nine – sent baggage off at twelve.  At half-past two, set off ourselves, and arrived, galloping, Δεσποτα190 out of breath, at Ioannina by a quarter before five.  Very fine day again.  Returned thus in four days, having been nine going – this journey may be easily performed with luggage in three.

Took up our abode again with Signor Niccolo, who wanted to kiss Fletcher on his return.  Dined at home.  In the evening, Signor Niccolo told me that he had been for three months at the siege of Barat, that he used to smoke his pipe in the midst of the shooters,191 that though there were forty pieces of cannon in the castle, besides mortars and 6,000 besiegers, he once heard the list of killed and wounded, after a battle of forty-eight hours, three killed – two wounded.  To bed eleven.  Fine day.

Friday October 27th 1809

Up ten.  Dressed in Albanian suits – undressed myself.  Walked out with Signor Niccolo, into the town – shops crowded with Turks, and the city looked rich enough.  The customs of Ioannina about 50,000 dollars.  Bought a Romaïque grammar and two Greek books for a little less than a dollar, though the vendor asked double at first, but was bated by Niccolo.  This day sent Lord Byron’s rifle gun, with a letter in Greek written by Niccolo, to the Vizier.  Young Bosari called and brought this news, that the Russians were within a few hours’ march of Constantinople, that our fleet had left the Adriatic, and that sixty English ships of war were in the Dardanelles, requesting the Turks to make war with the French – item – the Greeks have taken part with the Russians.  This news concerns us192 – but Ali Pacha has a present to him from the English on the road, and says he will have peace with us at all events – Fletcher alarmed – – – (wrote this from last Sunday).

Niccolo’s people during our absence stole half a bottle of gunpowder.  Lord Byron broke one of our two remaining teacups.193

Saturday October 28th 1809

Up nine.  After waiting till past twelve for Vizier’s horses, set off to visit the remains of an amphitheatre, under the hills of Olinta to the east of Joanina.  Went through a plain, fine – ascended the hills, and came down upon the spot.  Evidently an ancient city, and very fine remains of what Captain Leake says is the largest amphitheatre in Greece – I stepped the diameter of the area, which I made fifty-six long paces, and reckoned sixty-five rows of stone seats, each seat being        194 in depth.  Captain Leake dug a marble vase out of the area – the name of this place is ...               195

Returned with young Mr Bosari, who dined with us in the evening.  This amphitheatre is said to be between three and four hours distance from Ioannina, but we were back by half-past five – young Bosari said that the Sultans deposed had their heads in a mortar or their bowels plucked out, by the hand through the anus,196 and that the late Sultan Mustapha being pulled from his throne by Bairactar gave the present Sultan Mahmout a cut over the eye with his diamond dagger.197

Went to a Turkish puppet-show at a coffee-house,198 this being the comedy exhibited during Ramadan.  The show was in the corner of the room, the figures being shown on a piece of greased paper a yard or so in length and breadth.  The hero of the presentation199 was a [BLOT] personage with an immense head and body tapering to the waist of a wasp, and from the regions of his breeches proceeded an enormous yard,200 supported by a piece of visible string from his neck, which he seemed to wear par excellence, none of the other characters having this engine displayed.  Towards the conclusion a certain divertissement was introduced between this man and a lady, which was highly to the taste of the audience, which consisted mostly of young boys.  Nothing could be more beastly,201 but Lord Byron tells me that he has seen puppet-shows in England as bad, and that the morris dances in Nottinghamshire are worse.  One of the most admired passages in the play was where the above important character held a soliloquy addressed to the appendage alluded to, which he then snubbed most soundly with his fist, which was a prelude to the devil descending and removing this engine from before and affixing it to his posteriors.  To bed at twelve.

Sunday October 29th 1809

Up nine.  After breakfast, walked out to the gardens of the Vizier – in a wild state, but a very elegant pavilion within, with a pretty jet d’eau from a marble fortress in the midst, the cannons spouting out their water, and a little water-organ playing to perfection.202  A large field with a few deer.

Dined at home – in the evening, visited Mehmet Effendi, the governor of the town, who was a little jocular, and towards the end of our audience said that he was sorry we did not understand Greek, that he might show us that he was a man of wit, and one acquainted with philosophical books, which he had much studied – he hinted that the cannonading heard yesterday was from Cerigo!!203 – the other side of the Morea.

Afterwards, called in the fortress on Mahomet Pacha, eldest son of Veli – a pretty boy – said to be very clever,204 and certain to be spoilt.  Whether he be clever or not, said he would thank us to take a letter from him to his father in the Morea.  Left him at eleven, after smoking and eating sweetmeats and drinking sherbet and coffee – this palace of Ali’s has three hundred chambers.

Monday October 30th 1809

After breakfast, called upon young Mahomett Pacha – rode out with him to his brother in Veli Pacha’s palace205 – a lad seven years old.  Walked out with them both to the garden of the palace, when I left, the little Bey said to the little Pacha, “Brother, do me the favour to stay with me a short time – I am quite alone” – the Pacha answered – “I shall be most happy to oblige you”.  They were very affectionate, but the Pacha said at one time to the Bey, who was skipping about, “Brother, remember you are in the presence of a stranger – walk more sedately.”  The young Pacha rode with great ease and spirit.

Dined at home.  In the evening Signor Niccolo told me there was a schoolmaster in Ioannina who[se] ancestors had taught school for three hundred years, the head of the family always being master pædogogue.  To bed early.

Tuesday October 31st 1809

Up ten.  Breakfast – Lord Byron broke the only remaining teacup on purpose, being suspicious that this little individual might be ye cause of war.206  This was what he said, but I suspect another reason.  Sent a piece of gold-silk to Miss Niccolo, value thirty zechins – she, not being married, could not kiss hands for the present, but made Georgio her proxy.207  Byron is writing a long poem in the Spenserian stanza,208 and I am collecting Davies’ jokes, reading the Arabian nights in Greek Romaïque – most barbarous Italianisms – e.g. χωρις αλλο, “senza altro”.

Went out and called on a schoolmaster who has a hundred scholars, and teaches them modern and ancient Greek, Latin and Italian.  This school endowed by a Russian merchant – there is another in Ioannina where there are three hundred boys, who learn ancient Greek – we were shown a Thucydides translated into modern Greek.209  Mr Niccolo has a Rollin210 in Romaïque.  The boys pay nothing for instruction, and any one may attend the school.  Dined at home – to bed late.

Wednesday November 1st 1809

Up ten.  Rainy day, so could not go coursing with the young Pacha, who this day sent us a letter to take for him to the Morea.  (Veli gave 3,000 purses for his Pachalique).  A Turk, who had been Christian of a good family, Greek, and spoke Latin, called and talked, asking permission to call again in the evening – dined at home.  Renegado called, and got some zechins out of Lord Byron, and drank three glasses of Rostig, which frightened Vasilly, this being [a] hanging matter.  To bed eleven.

Thursday November 2nd 1809

Up nine.  Renegado again called, and, repeating his visits, was hounded out by Vasilly.  Walked out with Signor Niccolo for half an hour to an Italian who is making a bed for Felice, and who has been working this month for the Vizier without pay.  This man the only one in Ioannina who could mend an umbrella.  This morning a man called with some coins211 – some very good indeed, one of P.Æmilius,212 but for twenty-three, asked fifty zechins – so I did not purchase, and from this specimen think I shall content myself with taking little bits of brick, like the pedant in Hierocles,213 as samples of the ruins &c. that I may like.

Friday November 3rd 1809

Set off from Ioannina at one p.m.  Arrived at St Demetrius, and slept at that osteria without company this second time.214  We have a guard of soldiers – a captain, who for love of us travels in company, and allows us to pay for his charges215 … Δεσποτα is also with us … no rain.

Saturday November 4th 1809

Up half-past four, off at seven.  Arrived without accident by sunset at Arta.  Very beautiful round latter part of the way – fine weather – got a good lodging.  Our old friend Signor Georgio and the padrone of the house dined with us, and ate plentifully, taking Byron for a philosopher because he was reading Elegant Extracts216 at dinner time.  Bed early.

Sunday November 5th 1809

Up ten.  Before setting off, went round the fortress at Arta – the foundation stones of which are immense, fourteen and a half feet long, five or six broad.  These certainly antique – Arta is conjectured to be on the site of the Ambrachia of Pyrrhus,217 and is on a peninsula formed by the river Arethon.

At sunset, arrived at Salora.218  Fine, hot day.  Observed at Arta that the Greeks talking of a man who is a spendthrift call him a fool.  Lodged in the Vizier’s rooms.

Monday November 6th 1809

Sent Vassilly with a letter to Captain Leake at Prevesa.  Up eleven.  Bathed in the sea off a little pier jutting out from the garden door.  An English hot summer’s day passed here, lounging on the Ambrachian Gulf – Byron pointed out that Spenser, in his description of doubt, talks of the Albanian dress and capot.219  Mem: at Joaninna I saw a coin of “Hercules the Saviour of the Thracians” – who was this?220 Also one of Pisistratus.221

Tuesday November 7th 1809

Up nine.  Left Salora for the last time.  Fine sail down the Gulf.  The basin in which the battle of Actium was fought not big enough for the manoeuvres of two frigates.  At Prevesa, lodged in a little dirty house, and Captain Leake did not ask us to dinner.

Wednesday November 8th 1809222

Did not set off with one Yatchee Bey, who is going to clear Acanarnia of the robbers who have, it seems, left the hills of Tricala to invest these parts,223 but got on board a galliot of the Vizier’s, with forty men and four guns, to sail to Patrass.  The wind being fair, she nearly ran aground at weighing anchor, and the Captain, a mild man224 with a comboloio,225 asked us if we would wish to stay till night.  This we did not understand, and therefore begged him to try again, which he did, and got off about one, a good steady breeze.  About four we were in distress, the wind still fair, and attempted to put about, for fear of running on St Maura if we did get round the Leucate, the nautus formidatus Apollo being whirled off before the wind for Malta or Corfu.226  Doing this, one of the large lateen sails split up, and when we were round, matters got worse.  The sailors, Turks all but five, jumped below to eat, and the Captain, or rather the Captain of the Captains, for all had a command, wrung his hands and wept.227  Georgio called on the name of God, [at] every heel of the ship – the main yard broke, the cannons began to roll, and the ship most probably would have been lost, swamped in this predicament in which there was really no danger, had it not been for the service of two or three Greeks, one of whom took the helm228 and brought us by one in the morning, the wind being subsided, to a bay in a district belonging to our Vizier, called Fanari.

Thursday November 9th 1809

This morning229 people appeared on the cliffs, to know who we were, and as soon as their fear of our being English subsided,230 two boats issued out of the bay for Paxos, which island, with Antipaxos, is near a small part of Corfu, being also visible.  In the afternoon, with the advice of our gallant Captain, who was afraid that he should be obliged to take us into a French port, we disembarked ourselves and chattels in the bay, near a small custom house, taking the second Captain, who preferred the dangers of the land to those of the sea, with us.  By sunset, and after an half an hour’s ride through a wood, having Parga,231 a French port, in sight on the left, arrived at Dolondoracho, a small village, where we got a small house, but were well-treated by the Vizier’s soldiers and people,232 and found that a wreck which we had seen in the bay was that of an English prize, the midshipman who had the care of her having slept in the same house before us, five days, and given the wreck to the soldiers for their civility.233

Friday November 10th 1809

Up betimes, and, not being able to get horses till late, walked about, and took a draught of Suli,234 which see in red book.235  Volundaracho is in the district of Suli, which is seen with its castle three parts up the opposite mountain, and which appears well capable of costing any man, as it did the Vizier, thirteen years to take it.  Round beneath236 is a plain, running north and south, and to the south below Suli, Castriza, a παλειο castro.  The Suliotes, it seems are conquered, but their spirit is not yet quite subdued – they won’t stand beating, as Vasilly told me, and they get payment for their horses and services.  The country is garrisoned with 2,000 soldiers, three hundred in Suli itself, and thirty in our little village.237  Not a grape but a corn country.

At one, being attended by the Albanian Primate and armed guides, we set out with fifteen horses on our road to Prevesa,238 and travelled till sunset through woody hillocks by the seaside.  A charming ride, passing a castle of the Vizier’s perched on a peak of crags in the district called Ereenosa.  Saw a quantity of a pretty shrub bearing a fine wild fruit, komara, red, pulpy, and growing as large as a crab-apple – the taste a little insipid.  The village in which we passed this night called Castropsheanea – as near as I could get to the sound – rather of the better sort.  Strolled out after dark, assailed by dogs – no-one stirring – difference between the Albanian and an English village – another summer day.

Saturday November 11th 1809

Left our village at twelve.  Travelled to the seaside round a large bay with a fine beach – a barren country.  Crossed a little river in a wood at first – coming to one of the shores of Nicopolis, Lord Byron and myself trotted off to pay another visit to the ruins, and saw, what I had not seen before, the remains of a theatre on a hill – a semicircle – not large – in the plain on the way to Prevesa.  The burying-ground has been discovered, and Captain Leake dug up two leathern lamps in a vault, one of which Commeniuti has given to Lord Byron.  Pleasant ride through the olive groves to Prevesa, where we arrived at sunset, and were lodged at the Consul’s house, where were several midshipmen, employed selling prizes at Prevesa.

Dined – a bad, long, scraggy dinner, which I should detail if I did not recollect how stupid Mr Thornton’s good dinners are upon paper.239  A clever young midshipman told us that another midshipman had been very ill-treated by the Albanians above Parga – so that the Vizier seems to be the only prince in this country with civilized subjects.

Sunday November 12th 1809

Up ten.  Wrote from red book240 journal of six pages.

Went to the promontory, a flat of Actium – there are the walls in a few places of what is supposed to have been a hippodrome, or place of exercise for the Ambracian and Nicopolatan youth.  The stones are placed in this way [sketch].  Mr Festing, midshipman of Kingfisher, dined with us.  To bed at twelve.

Monday November 13th 1809

Set off in another galliot of the Vizier’s – same captain – for Utraique.  No wind in the evening off Vostitza.  On board all night.

Tuesday November 14th 1809241

Sunrise over the hills of Agrapha at the bottom of the Ambracian Gulf.  Fine sail under the woody hills to the right (south).  Anchored four o’clock at Utraique, situate in a pretty, deep bay at the south-east corner of the Gulf.  There is a custom house, and a lodge for soldiers, surrounded by a high wall, except at the water’s edge.  Fifteen days past, thirty-five robbers made their appearance close to the house and carried off a Turk and a Greek, the former of whom they shot, and the latter of whom they stoned, on a small green spot at the bottom of the bay (by way of bravado, as we heard).242

We had with us, from Prevesa, including Captain Lato and Vasilly, thirty-seven soldiers, and the scene at night-time was not a little picturesque, a goat being roasted whole for the Albanians.  They assembled in four parties round as many fires, and the night being fine they sung and danced to their songs round the largest blaze after their manner.  Several of these songs turned on the exploits of robbers, one beginning thus “When we set sail a band of thieves from Parga – we were in number eighty-two.”243 “κλεπτεις ποτε Παργα!   κλεπτεις ποτε Παργα!”244 Indeed, we afterwards learnt that the most polished Boli Basha245 amongst them had been, only four years ago, a most formidable thief, commanding nearly two hundred men in the mountains of Hepacto, which, it seems, was also the condition of His Highness once, who began the world, at the death of the last Pacha for lower Albania, with, as he says, sixty parasi.246  This night, including the guard of the place, our company amounted to sixty-seven people.

Wednesday November 15th 1809

Up sunrise.  Took, besides our own guard, ten men from the barrack at Utraique247 – road to the South through woods, a plain widening with hills not high on each side.  Got to Catona248 at twelve in a shower, where there are but a few houses, but those good, and a school-house.  From the hill on which it is placed is a fine view to the east, with a large lake (the Archeloous) in the distant plain.  It was our intention to proceed to Machala249 that day, but our progress was interrupted by an affair between Vasilly and the Primate at whose house we were in, which, after a precipitate retreat leaving his cloak and shoes behind him, the latter fell down a hill, and put out his shoulder.250  Here we were well lodged.

Thursday November 16th 1809

At twenty minutes before twelve set off at Machala.  Road through a lovely woody country.  Mounting the hills just before Machala, the prospect widens, and plain enclosed to the west with high mountains (Bounstos) to the east.  Also the view is very grand – a lake (Niseros, six miles long) and the Archelöus or Aspro, winding through a woody plain.  In this country there are fewer villages, and as far as travellers, we have met none, but the houses are better than in Albania.  This in which we are lodged is like a squire’s house in the Wiltshire downs, a little in decay (timber in instance).  There are two courts, one before and the other behind, with a terrace, the whole being surrounded with a strong high wall which shuts out the prospect, it is true, but shuts out the thieves likewise, who always invest this country from Santa Maura, and whose handiwork is still apparent in a large house, half pulled down about twenty years past.  At Machala, forty houses.  Debate about the road to be taken tomorrow, which as usual was of no end and use.  Good path today.  Mem: four hours from Catona – thunder and lightning this day.

Friday November 17th 1809

Up ten.  Obliged to stay this day at Machala for want of horses, which Vasilly said was owing to the disuse of the stick – two Palœo Castro’s to be seen from the hill, one to the right (Aeto), another to the left (Ligusto-vichi).  Albanian soldiers billeted – tinkling of sheep and goat bells in the night – large fleeces, but not fine wool.  The wealth of the Greeks in their flocks, for the pasturage of which they pay a certain sum to the Vizier.

Saturday November 18th 1809

Up at seven.  Set off ten.  Road through woods – scraggy path to a village, a horse falling and dying by the way.  Prodromo half-past twelve, few little houses – then oak woods all the way through a tangly dangerous Kleftical pass251 for five hours to the banks of the Archeloüs, broad and rapid flowing as in the map – crossed this river at sunset, to the dislike of Vasilly who wished to stay at               ,252 a village on the west bank, and after some delay with the baggage, settled for the night at Gouria at nine, a small village, partly Greek, partly Turk, a decent lodgement.  Mem: Acarnanian Oaks. Ætolea tonight.253  Fine day.

Sunday November 19th 1809

Up ten.  Set off twelve for Natolico, keeping through a plain at first near the course of the Achelous.  Cultivated, and cultivated this Lord’s day.  Albanians seize254 horses and asses with a puerile pertinacity and exultation.  To the eastward in three hours to Natolico,255 a town built on a island on a salt marsh in the Venetian fashion.  The marsh very extensive, reaching six miles about beyond Messolonghi.  The houses here are good, but the Waiwode256 a boor, who, however, improved upon being spoken to a little decisively.  The English Vice Consul did nothing for us,257 but his want of attention was made up by the civility of a claudicating Physician,258 who told us he was honoured by our partaking of his “little misery,” and, inter alia, observed that the present Vice Consul was extremely unfit for his place, and that he was extremely fit for it.  A friend of his also said he should have been happy to have had us in his house, but that his mother was dying in it, so that he could not, “Which”, said he, “is my disgrace and misfortune”.  Good dinner.  Six hundred259 houses at Natolico.

Monday November 20th 1809

Up ten.  Off twelve, on two horses with Albanian guard – baggage punted along the marsh to Messolonghi in three hours, we arrived in two.  Passed the walls of an antiquity on a hill to the left, called something like “Teeserenes”.260  Entering Messolonghi, Signor our Consul met us on a prancing palfry, and took Byron for an ambassador – talked French.  Tolerable dinner and decent lodging in this town, which is partly Turk partly Greek, with about 5,000 inhabitants, and subsisting chiefly on a large fishery which there is stretching in the salt marsh which extends five-six miles into the entrance of the Gulf of Lepanto, and renders this harbour fit only for small vessels, an immense circuit being enclosed by fishermen’s nets.  This evening paid Albanians who accompanied us from Prevesa a zechin each, besides five to two Bolu Bashees and five to Lato – they were all well satisfied.  To bed eleven.

Tuesday November 21st 1809

Up nine.  Set off in a Χιεηε261 for Patrass,262 but the wind blowing strong we took the boatmen’s advice and returned to our lodging at Messolonghi,263 much to the horror of Signor Stracco the Consul – dull day with rain &c.  At this place strolled out with Δεσποτα264 about the town, which has some few tolerable shops.  Went into a mosque, small square room, a pulpit with stairs to it on one side, and a kind of reading desk on the other.  Depending from a square frame in the middle of the room were some imitations, as I understood, of the end of a camel’s tail [sketch].  Walked about with a man who told me that there was not one rich man in Messolonghi, but that a good many had about 5,000 piastres per annum.  A secretary of Signor Consul’s begged leave to recommend a giovanne265 for our companion and servant, viz., himself, who looked bordering on thirty.  Vizier commands about fifty provinces – to bed ten.

Wednesday November 22nd 1809

Up daylight.  Set off in a larger vessel, a trebaculo with ten men, for Patrass.  Two hours getting out of the shoal water and fishery, being obliged to show a pass at a curious little fort built in the sea, with a few wicker huts near it raised on stakes in the water, just big enough to admit one man, three or four rows of stake-hedge being also planted before each hut to break the force of the water in rough weather.

In two and a half hours from this island of Basilida, blowing fresh and squalls of rain, arrived at Patrass.  Saluted at landing by Mr Strané.266  On this “long-expected shore”,267 walked through dirty streets to his cousin Paul, the Imperial Consul’s house – met Monsieur Blanc268 in a red coat.  “Ah Monsieur Blanc, à cheval cet jour? – Ah! très bien, Monsieur Blanc!”  Blanc is a physician.  Capital dinner, and neat, set out at Cousin Paul’s, who has lived sans interruption forty years at Patrass.  No news here269 – principal objects at Patrass the flagstaffs of the various consuls, Cousin Paul having two stuck on his premises, one for the Imperial flag and the other of those of Sweden, Russia &c.  To bed, replete, at ten.

Thursday November 23rd 1809

Up late – the tailor we expected to find, gone to Zante!!270  where everything good is gone and to be found.  Locks of trunks picked here, Fletcher [having] missed the bunch of keys – dinner at half-past three with Cousin Paul again – good, but not so good – cosi va il mondo.271  Returned in the evening to tea.  Chancelier Padou272 made tea.  The good Strané don’t like losing at cards.  All the people of this country musical.  At Prevesa I saw, more than once, two fellows strolling together with a couple of fiddlers behind them, exercising their art in the street, which I was told is common with the Greek sailors arriving in port.  The Albanians are likewise muscial – Vassilly and Dervis Tacheere play on a rude lyre four-string lyre with a plectrum.  To bed twelve.  Rain today.

Friday November 24th 1809

Up ten.  Cold morning – mountains behind Patrass covered with snow, near Patrass a river flowing between two high hills which still preserves its ancient name, being called Leucate.  Patrass a considerable port for trade, in oranges, olives, but above all currants, and also the cotton from Lepanto.  The olive and orange-grounds in the plain to the south of town have a beautiful appearance, and with the currant-gardens on the other side, must render the place a pleasant residence.  The white Turkish fort is an ugly, useless thing273 – the Russians bombarded this place with a line-of-battle ship and a frigate in the last war.274  There is a small fort at the water’s edge.  Patrass has about 8,000 inhabitants, 1,000 Turks.

Dinner with Paul good again – tea in the evening – the Cogia Basha275 as before at cards with Strané and Paul.

Saturday November 25th 1809

At eleven, after a dose of salts, strolled down to the beach.  A fine day.  Dinner as usual with Cousin Paul.  News of Austria and France – treaty of peace – – – – – – – –276

Sunday November 26th 1809

Up late.  Dinner with Mr Paul &c.  Saw and did nothing.

Monday November 27th 1809

Up late.  Rode out, three horses, down the coast to the south – a fine beach, to mouth of a small river, which may be seen winding through a narrow valley between two abrupt hills – the Leucas.  Lands cultivated with grapes and olives with a few cypress trees.  Dinner as usual.  Bed eleven.  Warm, fine day.

Tuesday November 28th 1809

Up late.  Indoors all day (I believe) till feeding time as usual introduced – para-dice – this evening with Mr Chancelier Padou.

Wednesday November 29th 1809

Up very late.  Twelve.  Could not get horses, so I took a walk with Mr Padou277 down the beach to the north – dinner, &c. – bed very late.  Consul’s General allowed two per cent upon exported and imported English goods of all kinds (Mr Padou).278  There is a letter of Cicero’s to Tyro at Patrass,279 where it appears Cicero had left him for his health.  The damp fogs however arise and settle over the plain of Patrass, as I saw more than once.

Thursday November 30th 1809

(This day for the first time I discovered Mr Paul to have a wife.)  Up late – rode out to the beach on the north, going near the fort of the Morea opposite the fort of Roumily, as it is called, at the entrance of the passage of the Gulf, from whence also may be seen the town of Hepacto.  These forts appear large and of the better sort, but Mr Paul tells me that the Morea fort is used for a sheep-pen.  This flat not so well cultivated as the other side, but two or three neat villages may be seen on the side of the hills.

Returned – dined and diced with Signor Paul.  Strané tells me there are three high hills in the Morea – Olono, which may be seen from the Dogana of Patrass – Stiria, to the south, and Helmo, near the isthmus.  The hill with the three heads nearer to Patrass – Santa Mary!! Midsummer weather – to bed late.

Friday December 1st 1809

Up late – rode out, four horses, Vassilly and Dervis, to the southern beach, with double-barrel guns.  Crossed the little river Leucas and went as far as the next point – returned and bathed – water warm.  Came at five to Mr Paul’s table – after very hot day, dinner in pipe-time.  A Mr Parnelle,280 a young man who has come out to write for Mr Strané at £100 per annum with board lodging and washing, who had been in the east Indies by way of Rio [de] Janeiro,281 assured Lord Byron and myself that on his honour, that when his ship was lying off an island called Fernando Nerona,282 whither Portugeze convicts are sent, and where there is